1985-86-87… Where the idea to open up a shop came from I don’t remember but the time was right! We were selling very well in Spain, specially in Marbella, Ibiza and Barcelona. The thing is that these shops sold a few of our models, some over and over again…

like the “Saphir” sandal which was very popular in Marbella, Ibiza and Los Angeles, especially in Gold or silver leather, in all different heels, from high to flat. A real best-seller.

        Summer collection…

Anyway, what I wanted to say is that in your own store you can do what you want and put a whole atmosphere there which is your own, display all the ideas you might have for all to see and eventually buy… and there it was: a telephone call from Madrid! A lovely young woman from Finland by the name of Taria who lived in Madrid and was the wife of Ivan, a very popular Spanish Pop star.

Tony, our favorite seamstress with a poster of Ivan which he signed for her.

She wanted to talk to us and propose something, very interesting. They came for a visit and we talked. She really wanted to put up a shop and sell all our things, which is great but I could not have her have all the say, so after negotiating back and forth we made a 50/50 deal.

 Invitation for the opening of the shop…and what they wrote about it…

this picture was made in Madrid by Andre Rau for the STERN magazine…

 This meant we each paid half of all the costs, lease, rent, bills, keeping up, sales salaries and stock and we shared the profits of the sales in the shop. We as manufacturers made the normal  profits on what we sold to the store as we did by selling to other stores. Taria had quite a lot of freedom to order the models and colors she wanted which was not always the same as my own ideas but she was the person in the store and very dedicated and I even believe she found the shop which was an amazing deal in a district that was coming up as the Avant-garde fashion center of Madrid, it all is certainly “high end” there now! It was a sort of fallen down building, out of order and waiting to be torn down in that street named Piamonte. It had a marble front with a small but very chic window,

and a very nice door, the rest was a ruin but full of possibilities. Taria and I had slightly different taste so concessions had to be made, I particularly remember the floor because I wanted it to be wood but Taria wanted black stone which with our Kilims on top looked great and the store looked fabulous when we had finished with it. I even had a mirror put on one of the ceilings so you  could see what the shoes on your feet looked like seen from above while sitting down.

The shop worked great, Taria was there every day and Alejandro moved from Elda to Madrid and worked in the shop which was very important because we could really trust his taste and he knew all about the fabrication as he already had worked with us for the past few years, he even had his own line and designs will.

Salvador made this gorgeous painting of me specially for the store, all in black and white except for the belt, bracelet and the blue shoes ( which you can’t see here).

Blue Jean collection

We were still living in Elda which was quite a way from Madrid, 4 hours by fast train, which was never fast but at times I went there to see how things were going and stayed with Alejandro in his flat or with our friend Sylvia Polakov, famous fashion photographer who has a wonderful place overlooking the “Retiro” park. Once the shop was working really well and we had a lot of interesting clients from the world of movies, fashion and music that visited our shop from everywhere and as far as from LA to Chile or Columbia, Holland, France or Africa, I introduced a small collection of clothes which was being produced in Madrid

And now…. I was going to have to go there more often

Alegria visiting Versailles during a trip we made to Paris, her dress and shoes are made by me and she looked so pretty there….

Alegria visiting Ava Hervier for the summer holidays

LOVE and PEACE

                                                                      Photo for Spanish Elle by Sylvia Polakov 1985

It all starts with a drawing which is than classified and numbered, number of form or pattern and all other information that comes to mind……

Besides shoes I loved to draw a whole collection of clothes around the shoes.…some I would make for myself

… and when a friend of Alejandro, Clementine who lived in Paris, daughter of our friend Fanchon, passed by to spend some time with us in Elda, we got her all made up and dressed with my clothes and she let me take pictures of her on the terrace of our house in Elda. Alejandro did most of the styling and I think she is absolutely beautiful!

 Velvet coat, velvet boots …

 Bright emerald green silk tafeta blouse, blue suede skirt, black and gold belt,  soft leather booties…

 black leather top, belt with studs and stones and different metallic leather flats…here Clementine with Alejandro

Pity this is in Black and white as the colors were dazzling, all in the purples and gold…

The house in Elda where we finally landed was a wonderful house we rented from Maria, an eccentric old lady who had spent her whole life in the shoe biz. It was right on the outskirts with a terrace overlooking the mountains where we used to go for walks with our Afghan hound ” Kabuli”. We now had completely moved out of “El Cuarton” in Cadiz and lived full time in Elda and the country house in Aguas de Busot. The beautiful “Nido del Aquila” on top of the mountain got sold with our help and the Muñeca was now taken care of by friends. We had to be in Elda all the time because the business was getting serious and needed all of our attention and also there had to be some stability for the kids who had to go to school and so on. We had a marvelous girl named Paqui who would come everyday and cook and clean and take care of Alegria when she came out of school…

It was a very good time….

LOVE and PEACE

Oh, How wonderful to be making shoes, loved every minute of it although it was not always wine and roses.
The production was more or less in place so now the selling was the most important and in order to do so we had to get known  in the shoe store world. So after we did the shoe-fair in Elda…

which was very successful, we decided to do the NY Fashion Fair with our shoes and belts

Alejandro brought us to the airport.…

We were received in style in NY.  Samina, the Pakistani princess  and owner of the Nido del Aquila, came to pick us up at the airport in a white Rolls Royce, wearing an incredible white fur sitting there beautifully in the white leather seats.… ha, ha she was too much.… you should have seen her home, all minimalistic super modern Italian furniture, it was indeed nice to see her and we promised we would do our best helping her to sell her house in Spain….

By now we had quiet some clients in the US, all wonderful stores, and we got some nice press in the Woman’s wear daily and some other magazines

The “Faust”

” La Española” designed by Salvador…

Carmen Maura, famous Spanish movie-star with my Rockies in Blue

In order to keep the factory busy between the time we made-up the models, did the selling, prepare the orders, order the materials and so on, there was a gap in which I had to keep the seamstresses and cutters busy, the shoemakers took much longer and they had always something to do and most of them were temporary workers anyway but not the seamstresses and cutters… so I started to make belts and mittens and finally bracelets of leather incrusted with studs and stones. We sold those like Hot cakes!
The first sample I always made myself and the happiest moments of that time was to be in the factory at night after everybody had gone home, sometimes with Salvador, sometimes with Marianni, sometimes alone, everything at hand, leathers, studs, stones, machines and everything else to design and make up whatever came to my mind, nice music, a good joint, that was heavenly to me.

The mittens, ( muñeceras)

Of course there were many things that were not so heavenly. Some clients would not pay at all, others would let us wait for months and considering that a phone call to the US was $1.50 a minute at that time, it nearly ruined us. That’s why it was a very happy moment when a girl, Vesna, whom I had befriended at Yves Saint Laurent where she was a model, called me out of the blue and told me that she was shopping for shoes in NY and bought a pair of mine but did not realize they were mine until she got home and saw my name… Now Vesna wanted to represent us in America and Vesna was just perfect, looked great, had good taste and was really ready to go for it.

Now the whole setup changed and from now on we got the orders directly from Vesna, she paid us, than took care the shoes got to the stores and that’s how she got paid. It was much better and our list of American clients grew. We bought a Telex, the computer was still pretty unknown and only very big companies had them, so we had now a Telex, the next best thing, which often woke us up in the middle of the night when the orders of the US were coming in with a lot of noise.

In the meantime we decided to rent an apartment in Elda so we did not have to stay in hotels . It was not a very nice apartment but at least we could make our own food. One day when we were driving around to discover the area we found this incredible place called ” Aquas de Busot” . We saw these beautiful abandoned houses and so we asked around in the nearby village where they gave us the name of the woman who was taking care of them. It was swift and happy for both parties, we could rent the house for something like $50 a month… Wow, what a place. It was pretty old and had plenty of rooms. I think the servant quarters were down stairs, an enormous entrance with a fire place so big we could all stand in there and in the days was used for cooking and a room and a storage place, upstairs were the living room and the bed rooms and bathroom.

The house stood in the middle of beautiful woods where no one ever came, with here and there another abandoned house, all big and beautiful and in the middle of the woods was a small castle, so pretty as I never saw, not even in movies, could very well imagine the Romeo and Juliette scene there on that beautiful balcony. We met the people who owned it, they came down occasionally in the summer when it was too hot in Madrid and  they showed us the place inside. Some parts of the castle were build in the 14th century and left original. It was perfect and in use, with gorgeous carpets and furniture, can you imagine? In the middle of nowhere? They thought nothing of it, it had been in the family for centuries.

Alegria in Aquas… all the tiled floors were so beautiful….

The sanatorium painted by Salvador Maron.

There was also a Sanatorium, abandoned since the 40-ties but had been a very popular place for people with breathing problems. It was a small village by itself with many different buildings, lamps from the 30-ties hanging abandoned from the ceiling, wooden cabinets of all shapes and lots of “Tonnet” chairs, real ones, signed and all and this incredible marble stairs and bath tubs and floors, unbelievable. We had a lot of fun spending time there.

So lets see, now we had 4 places to live and for some reason we also had 4 cars. The Landrover from the “Nido”, the beautiful SEAT Salvador bought in Elda,

Salvador and the SEAT.. wearing a silk sweater by our friend EDINA RONAY

A BMW we had bought from a friend who needed to sell and a Buick, the only one Automatic and that was the one I was driving and as a matter of fact that was the car we drove down to Paris with to show our shoes there. Salvador had had this smart idea to rent a suite in a wonderful Hotel “Lotti” in Paris and invited the clients to come and visit us there rather than having a cold stand in the fair. We had such a good time and the clients were delighted to be received with champagne in that relaxing atmosphere

Things kept constantly changing. Alegria should go to school and Alejandro could not stay that much by himself as we were going more and more to Elda as that was where it all was happening. We are now more or less in 1985-86 and I am getting still deeper into shoes….

LOVE and PEACE

That was it! Francisco had found us a small Factory that was for rent! Wow, Our own factory! It was very old but everything was there, some incredible machines that looked really alien and too old to use but everything we needed for our handmade shoes worked. It was amazing because the rent was not much and it was perfect for us.

Well, here we were again cleaning up as good as possible and painted the office blue-green so one had the feeling to be in the water.

… Through the window from the entrance to the office

It was quiet a setup, we had to get people to make the shoes for us, a pattern maker, cutters, seamstresses, the shoe makers, (each specialized in his thing and machine, to keep the chain going and a girl to finish the shoes, 2 or 3 young assistants, someone for the office and someone to drive around and organize and pick up things (Francisco) and a manager to keep an eye on everything. Then there was us, Salvador the M.A.D. director and me the M.A.D. designer

and Mariani Vermeend, who had come from Holland with a friend for a visit and stayed, she was my right hand so to speak. We had placed an add in the paper and had job interviews, many people came and some got the job. Important for me was to find a seamstress who would understand me and I did! A young girl, her name was Tony. She was really incredible and eager to learn, she stayed with us through thick and thin and of course became the head seamstress. We saw her fall in love, getting married and having babies.    It was great to be in the factory , nice atmosphere, nice people and some were curious and liked what they were doing and knew they were appreciated by us and would do anything for us, like working sometimes to very late at night because things had to go…

Yes, Spain was wonderful, I love Spain and Elda was great, the nice weather, the beautiful mountains with an old castle here and there in the background, the factory and every thing one needed almost at hand… I say “almost” because at times I had to compromise for different reasons, it could be because of the great expenses, a new mold for a heel had to be made up by hand ( first cut in wood and when it is right they are made of plastic and sized to all sizes) so if I designed a special heel it was very costly to make up the molds unless you sold thousands of them which was not our case, we were just starting. But they had thousands of heel samples you could choose from of which the molds already existed, some from back in the 50-ties, all kinds of heights and shapes and there I had to compromise and get an existing one that was as close as possible to the one I had in mind. Later we were able to make up  more things like settings for the stones we found or ornaments to decorate the shoe, like buckles and chains, heels and platforms.

In the meantime I worked with the wonderful things available, Spanish brocades which were a specialty in Alicante as they use it for their traditional costumes they prepare once a year when they have something like a carnival. The good ones were hand woven and absolutely gorgeous.

One version with low heel…

.… and a higher heel (picture appeared in a magazine)

I also loved the old “mercerias”, stores where they sell ribbons and pasmanteria and tassels and other wonderful stuff, they often left me go to the back room where they kept all the things from years back, buttons and buckles and silk or plastic flowers …

Next thing we had to make the Logo,

the labels, the boxes, the cards and when all that done there was the “Elda Shoe Fair”  Hire a stand, decorate and invite as many people as possible. Most visitors were from Spain but from all over and some American buyers and press. That’s how we got our first clients and the factory started to work.

The factory, above left: Tony and right Tony with other seamstresses, a cutter, me with Olvido a young assistant, below Olvido, Marianni, me and Salvador and the last one, the shoemaker Paco and the manager…

By now I had learned a lot about shoes and could make myself a pattern or at least collaborate with the pattern maker as that is a real job and I had 1000 other things to do.

The “Lautrec” black suede with Golden wings

Me wearing them…

and a different version.

we convinced a leather company to print these leathers for us

and made belts of the pieces that were left over, you could snap them any way you wanted and make it once, twice or three times go around the body….

We were still driving up and down from Alicante to El Cuarton and back, always staying in a Hotel in Elda or Alicante, which was half an hour drive from Elda but was worth it, more comfortable in front of the beach with nice restaurants around. The fish there was so good… But there is no place like home  and being with the family was very important.

Alegria having a picnic with Kabuli our dog. We found Kabuli as a baby abandoned in a gas station, he was beautiful. A few years later he was killed by a shepherd when he went after a herd of sheep and never having seen an Afghan hound the shepherd got scared and shot him…

Alegria and Alejandro at home…

on the roof of the Muñeca, with Alegria, posing in my designs…

Marianni stayed with us and was a great help with all the work and we had fun too. Always remember driving from El Nido  to Elda in her open red Porsche through the mountains in the sunshine with the wind blowing in the hair and the music on…

 It was an exciting time, it was wonderful, we were lucky!

My Husband Salvador spend most of his time helping me in the business so he could paint less but still did some wonderful work,Next time we get deeper into shoes….

LOVE and PEACE

Oh, sorry it took so long to get back to you but we were packing and moving from Oregon back to Los Angeles. We have lived in Oregon in this ” middle of nowhere,” wonderful place called Sherwood, between Pine trees ( Douglas Fur) and friends, surrounded by fruit trees and flowers, for almost 3 years and now we felt like moving back to LA to be with our daughter and her family. A new adventure…

In the meantime in my story we are still in 1983-84. Can you imagine the 80-ties? The “House”. The “Funk,” the “Disco,” the “Saturday-night fever,” the Grunge, the big shoulders, enormous earrings and boots in all lengths, style and shape.

For us things got more serious and more complicated. Here we were on top of the mountain somewhere in the very south of Spain where now we had 2 big houses to take care of. La Muñeca was a beautiful house and huge! 13 bedrooms and different other rooms on the roof and an enormous cellar full of beautiful hand-painted Spanish ceramic plates and bowls of all sizes, which were there because the owner had ordered 1 set of each but they had delivered 6 sets of each and now they were stuck there.

La Muñeca ( The Doll) seen from the end of the pool and from where there was a glorious view of Africa  ☞

This is our first business card,drawn by Salvador with the name of our company which was”MAD”sl. MAD was standing for “Multiple Art Designs” or Money.Argent.Dinero.

Picture of Salvador in the “Pool” studio with a shoe of the first collection called “star”

Postcard we made from one of the pictures which we send out to a lot of shoe-stores to invite them to the Elda Shoe Fair. Well, this was all fine and wonderful but in the meantime we lived far away from Elda, Alicante, and not only that but it was very hard to stay in contact. There was no telephone in either of the houses ( cell phones did not exist then) so if we wanted or needed to make a call we had to go all the way down the mountain and be lucky if someone was in the “office” to let you in and let you make a call and then if we were very lucky we got Francisco on the phone. This was all a bit of a problem but we trusted them and thought they knew what they were doing.

First collection as they arrived in their white boxes…

We found a school for Alejandro which was quiet a way away, down the mountain early in the morning and take the bus, in the afternoon up the mountain and so if we were not there  he had to walk both ways and because we had to be away at times we needed a girl to take care because we were too busy. We found a lovely country girl, Maria Jose, a healthy strong young woman who could cook and everything else, it was nothing for her to kill a chicken or walk up the mountain every morning as she did not want to stay overnight unless it was really necessary, like when we were going to be away for a week and Alejandro could not stay by himself there in that big house of course.

Poster Salvador made, we sent those to all our clients to put in their store…

Now we had to go to Elda more often because the samples were ready and we decided to make up a certain amount of pairs in different sizes of each model so we would have a stock in case we started selling. Actually the factory that was making the shoes for us just needed work and convinced us that that was the way it was done, which was and is of course not the case. You make the models, take the orders and only then start the production. But as we were new to this and innocently believed what they were telling us, we had them make up a “stock”. OK, but now what? Where to put all these shoes? To have them brought up all the way to the top of the mountain seemed extreme and costly so we rented an office space in the town of Algeciras, the nearest city. OK, an other place that needed to be cleaned, painted and made ready so we worked hard and got it to look great, we even had our own telephone now so we were in a much closer contact with Francisco in Elda and one fine day we received the first shipment of shoes, big boxes full! We did not have our own shoebox designed yet so they were all in white plain shoeboxes but we could not believe our eyes when we opened them. Usually each shoe is filled up with silk paper folded to keep the shape and then each shoe is individually wrapped in some more silk-paper. Well, these that we saw in the boxes were to our astonishment wrapped in kitchen-towels and filled with toilet paper! Honestly, quiet “avant-garde” really, but not our style and there we understood that it had to be totally in our control otherwise anything could happen and did happen.

with Alegria, checking the production…

In Alicante on the way to our Hotel… both dressed by me, the sweater I knitted in Paris and the leather pants I think are still from NY. Alegria’s dress was recent, I made most of her clothes and she was my best model…

One day the girl who worked in our office a few hours a day, wanted to wash her hands but there was no water, something that happened often in Algeciras at certain hours, but she forgot to close the tab and went home and sure enough the water came back… Next day when we came to the office and opened the door we could not believe our eyes, it really was an unbelievable sight to see all these boxes floating in the water that had been running all night. Well, this was a real disaster and we realized we had to do the whole thing differently and came to the conclusion that we somehow needed our own factory so we could control the quality and the timing because it was very important things got sent to the clients in time and they all wanted it NOW!

Golden Rocky, the al-time favorite, sold it over and over again…  background picture by Laurence Sackman

If there was a lot of work you could hire freelance shoemakers  of which there were many in Elda and everything would be controlled by us and our leathers would not get mixed up any longer, something that happened when we had our shoes made up by an other factory, they would use my beautiful leather lining for their shoes while they used their hard ones for mine… or they would put the wrong heel, or burn the leather, did not finish them (the finishing touch is important) thats when the shoes are checked, cleaned, brushed, wrapped and put in the boxes, but at times they were in such a hurry that they put them in the boxes without finishing.. We discovered this by accident! They had no idea that these shoes were going to the hottest ¨chic¨ stores.

Working in the Muñeca studio.

Anyway, we asked Francisco to look around and see what he could come up with and it did not take too long……

LOVE AND PEACE

Here we were in that beautiful place and with the possibility to set up a business of my liking and I had decided it was going to be shoes. Actually I knew little about shoes, for sure love them and I had designed them for YSL and sometimes had my own designs made up by a shoemaker but that’s as far as it went.
Now, where to start? It was 1982 and there was no internet we could consult but we discovered that Alicante, a Provence at the coast quite a long way from where we were, was the place where the shoe industry was located and there, a few miles from the city of Alicante, was a small town called Elda that concentrated totally on shoe making. Some other little towns and villages made shoes too but Elda was bigger and had the best reputation.
One morning we all got in the land-rover and we were on our way, a beautiful but very long drive through the high mountains and country roads. It was so far that if we left early in the morning we arrived late at night but that first trip we stayed somewhere overnight because we wanted to arrive fresh and early in Elda to investigate the situation. We went to have breakfast in town and made a telephone call ( No cell phones in that time) to the first shoe factory we saw in the Elda telephone book. Salvador explained, of course in Spanish, to the director who came to the phone, what we were looking for and he advised to call someone called ‘Alverado’ and invite him for lunch in the Elda country club, he probably could help us further. That was indeed a funny meeting, the food very good and we learned a lot. Alverado was the most advanced designer and had his own factory where he made his own line which was successful and after we explained again what we wanted to do he asked if we had our ” Hormas”? Horma is the spanish word for “Mould” or “Last” in the shoemakers language, which is a wooden or plastic form on which the shoe is moulded and mounted and which decides the shape of the shoe and the height of the heel and the width and the comfort… so indeed very important. No, no we had no moulds and it turns out that each model needs a mould and the first thing to do was to go and visit the mould makers and choose some form that would go with the designs I had prepared. We started with the one that Alverado had advised us and to our astonishment there were thousands and thousands of moulds to choose from, so many that at first it makes you dizzy but later you get used to it and you know better what you want. In the end we decided to have our own made up and so we went to the best mold crafter in Elda and had him make up 2 basic forms, 1 for high heels and 1 for flats which he made to my foot so I could fit the models.

      One of our forms

Extensive days looking for leathers and other things to do with shoes….

All this took days but in the meantime there was a lot to discover and at every step we were sent to the next and after visiting several factories we found Francisco. He was the son of ” Montesinos” a well known shoe-factory owner in Elda, but Francisco himself was working around in different places and someone had made him attentive to us and he spoke English!!! It was sometimes hard at that time to express myself exactly in Spanish so the fact that he spoke English and knew every corner of Elda made us take him in as our manager.

… with Francisco Montesinos trying out our first models…

Although Elda had everything a shoemaker needs, it was very basic and there was very little fantasy. Could not find the soft Gold leather I was looking for and it had to be soft and comfy… here I got a lot of protest of the shoemakers in the factories because they were not used to doing anything different and wanted to stick to the traditional way… Also I was a woman and believe it or not in that time still something not heard of much in that little Spanish town. So because everything was so basic I had to invent little things that would make them special, so we painted the leather made holes and made them all as soft as possible but of the best quality materials.

The softest of boots….

 The Gladiator

 Red Rocky, so well fitting, making a beautiful leg….

Venus, a best seller …

The painted leather….

We did a lot of work and after spending some time in Elda it was always great to come home and enjoy the pool and all the wonderful things there…

Back in “El Cuarton” we were now known to have resurrected the little castle and had done such a great job with the house that we were asked to take care of an other house that was empty and was next to ours… This house was much bigger then the Nido so we decided to make that place our  working space….

We go there next time but for the moment you can see what Salvador is doing in Alegria’s blog, Click HERE☜

 LOVE and PEACE

YES, we are packing and moving to Spain, it was not all of a sudden and it was not definite but we had gone there a few months and it had been great and all seemed to be prepared for us. The place we were going to, called “El Cuarton”, was a private urbanization with about 12 big houses on big pieces of land on a mountain side, with at the bottom of that mountain a small village with an office and some apartments for rent, a pool, restaurant and even a discotheque for the summer vacationers… El Cuarton was located between Algeciras, quite a big city with an important port, and Tarifa, a beautiful ancient quiet little town at the most southern point of Spain, a beautiful place with white empty beaches. It is 1981 and that is how it was but in the meantime Tarifa has become a famous place for surfers and the town is no longer quiet and the beaches no longer empty, lots of wind there which is great for the surfers but can sometimes drive you nuts! Salvador had gone first with Juan, driving all the way from Paris and had made friends with the director of “El Cuarton”, Michael, who invited the rest of the family to come and stay the summer there in one of the apartments in exchange for portraits Salvador did of his wife and son.
Read the whole story here in one of his books ¨Viaje al Cuarton¨,( half in Spanish, half in English) or CLICK HERE for the printed book.

In the time we stayed there we met some very nice people, the cook of the restaurant, a real chef, Jose Garcia Lomas, offered us to eat for free anytime in exchange for portraits Salvador did of his daughters, Robert who lived down the hill in a marvelous house and made great barbecues and was a real fan of Salvadors paintings and of course the director who did anything to get us to stay, and he organized an exhibition for Salvador of all the big pastels he had made while we were there. Alejandro had to go back to school , it was the end of the summer and we went back to Paris but Salvador stayed there to arrange things. He became good friends with Robert who asked him some time later if he would come with him to Paris to pick up a new car coming from England and then drive back with him. They came to Paris and on the way back to El Cuarton Salvador talked a lot about me and made Robert interested to know more and invest in an idea I might have for a business with my designs. In Paris he had seen my work and liked it and  he agreed. Salvador called me that night to tell me and now it seemed that all was falling into place.

AU REVOIR PARIS…

When Salvador came down with the land-rover, that came with the house, we packed her full and the 4 of us were on our way, the car was so heavy it would sway from left to right, but we got there safe after a three day drive.

Our little castle was quite high in the mountain, lovely house on a few acres of land, with a gate and winding driveway. It was called “El nido del Aquila” ( the Eagles nest), don’t know who gave it that name but we were delighted to live there for a while. The owner, Samina, lived in NY and almost never came down, so it was lucky we were there that summer and that she wanted Salvador to do her portrait because thats how they started talking.  She did not like the place as her husband had given it to her for her birthday but she was a bit suspicious about her husband buying that from an english woman without even ever having a look at it, besides she knew nobody in Spain.  She was very happy to leave it in our care and we were happy to take care.

There was a lot to do, for one the pool was now a play-ground for frogs and other creatures and looked dark green. Salvadors brother Pedro came over to help and between all of us we first cleaned off the old paint and then painted it a perfect blue.

The house needed a lot of care because the humidity was of a very high level, days on end we could be in the clouds but surprisingly when you got down the mountain the sun was shining, it was also a favorite place for the rain to play, the clouds would gather there as the wind came from all the directions.

Bella Alegria

                                                                                                         Pict: Cooky Debidour

my sweethearts happy in the Spanish country side

Once the house was put in order, decorated and repaired we started thinking seriously what to do. I did not have to think long, it seemed logic to me: SHOES! A dress, coat, pants or anything I could make but shoes… it was very hard to find nice shoes at that time and the man who produced the shoes for YSL, told me I had an excellent eye and talent for shoes and their proportions and he gave me a beautiful last, a form of the foot in wood on which the shoe is made, like saying ‘ go ahead, here is a start’, and most of all Spain is one of the countries in Europe that actually have a shoe industry… so all this put together….

… SHOES IT WAS GOING TO BE

   LOVE and PEACE

Times they are a changing……

In 1980 and 1981 I was drawing a lot for Yves St. Laurent and for me this was such a pleasure that I made each drawing a really nice one which was maybe not that necessary because after all it was for the designs they bought them. But Anne Marie told me that she really liked the fact that if she asked, for example, for T shirts I would also draw the belts and the jewelry. She really liked my drawings so I tried to make them as wonderful as I could.

One day in 1981 she offered me a real job, not freelance like I had done up till now, but in the YSL Design Studio which I knew well as I often went there and of course here was another dream-job for any one in my field of work, but…. although I did not answer straight away this time, but thought about it, in my heart I knew I was going to answer again: I can’t do it….… because I could not, an other adventure was in the making and like I told you I follow my heart.

Anne Marie Muñoz has been an important person for me, so kind, so beautiful, such great taste and wonderful manners, always impeccable with her dark red lips, high heels and of course dressed in YSL, she helped me a lot and made me feel protected, I will never forget her. An other wonderful woman I won’t forget is Claude Brouet, at the time chief editor at ELLE and later at MARIE CLAIRE and now at Hermes, she had a vision in Fashion , an incredible eye and very kind, I like her so very much. And the wonderful Irene Sylvagni, then editor in chief at French Vogue and now the right hand of  Yojhi Yamamoto, she impressed me a lot because of her free spirit and wonderful eye for Fashion. These 3 women have inspired me and influenced me, even if they don’t know they did so, and I am forever grateful to have had the change to meet them and work with them. ( if you click on their highlighted names you can read more about them).

 The drawings above (and 4 jewelry drawings) are in my possession because somewhere in the late 80’s when YSL was being sold,  Anne Marie gave these drawings back to me and said: ‘I like you to have these drawings, Yves liked them very much and I think you can do something with them one day’ .. Anne Marie, Anne Marie, how thoughtful…
Anyway I have them and think to sell them, after all they are a document of Fashion of that time and they have been through the hands and eyes of the master himself…

In the meantime… showing you some family pictures of that time, I even printed those myself in the Darkroom of a friend…

Alegria was growing up

Alejandro was doing well in school (his French teacher called to meet us and told us Alejandro had a great talent for writing and compared him to Flaubert and Rimbaud. He was doing a part in a popular French movie ” Alone in the world” a famous tear sucker which plays every year around christmas on TV. His mother in the movie was Petula Clark.

Salvador was painting like always but because of circumstances he had to drive with his friend  Juan Prat to the south of Spain as Juan himself could not drive. There in Spain he met Samina, a Pakistani princess of whom he made a portrait and who would lend us her house for several years and he met Robert, who would become an important person in our lives. Next time I will tell more about this because here things are starting to change and that was the reason I did not accept the wonderful job Anne Marie was offering me.…

Paris had been great, we had done a lot of things, we had met a lot of wonderful people, we had made friends, we enjoyed the best parties…Yes, Paris is a great place to live, we loved to walk around and go to the museums and exhibitions and to wonderful restaurants. Around the corner from where we lived were 2 incredible ones, one very famous as the stars of theater and TV would go there, great food and open till very late and the other one was in Rue Chaptal, we found it by accident because it was in front of Alejandro’s school. We called it ” The Ladies” because they were 3 sisters doing the whole thing. It was so good we went there whenever we could and brought our friends but like with all good things the word spreads fast and after a year or 2 it got so busy you had to call to make a reservation well in advance, of course the prices went way up, but still, an incredible place. Then there was “Dominique”, a Russian restaurant we liked a lot, Blinis with Caviar and Chicken a la Kiev, not to forget “Clos de Lilas” La Coupole and some other favorites. Enfin, Paris has everything and too many things to tell here… for now I leave you with some more family pictures.

We are now getting ready to go to Spain….

LOVE and PEACE

It is 1980 and I started drawing a collection of shoes for Yves Saint Laurent and when I had 24 of them I called Anne Marie Muñoz and went to see her at Avenue Marceau, the official “house” of YSL. I had been there often for fittings and private shows so I knew a lot of people there, but this felt different. I was quiet nervous and at the same time excited to show my drawings as I myself really liked them. Good for me Anne Marie did so too and so I got my first check as a free lance designer and it was a good one. I had hoped they would buy at least 6 but they bought all 24 of them!

These are photo copies of some of the shoes, the originals are in the YSL archives.
They have an incredible organization, “the Museum” Anne Marie called it, there they keep all the documentation and designs and now I was there too. Anne Marie told me to try my hand on some boxes for Eau de toilette and soap or parfum for Opium or Rive Gauche…

One in silver and blue and one different version. I did dozens of them, also jewelry,umbrellas, handbags, evening bags, fabrics, T shirts, scarfs and so on, all the accessories…

Photo copy of evening bag in Gold leather…

..and some jewelry..

These drawings of jewelry are scanned from the originals which are in my possession. Next time I will tell you how I got them back after they were sold to YSL.

I also designed fabrics for Karl Lagerfeld and when I saw his show and all the beautiful girls came out wearing silk dresses with the designs I had been making at home I really felt good, I thought it was quiet an incredible experience.

picture in Woman’s Wear Daily

Next post I will tell you more about that wonderful time…

LOVE and PEACE

MAKING DECISIONS

It is early 1979, Cooky and I are working on our new collection,

 … And me like always, stitching away, making up the models.

We had big dreams and decided to do the Paris Fashion-Fair, which is an important Fair during the Paris Fashion week when all the buyers from everywhere come to see the shows and make orders for the next season and we wanted to show our latest collection. To do that Fair was a mistake because the clients, or future clients, actually wanted to come to see our shop and have a private time with us to make orders, I mean, we were right there! But we were new at this and did not know. It broke our bank because it was very expensive, we wanted a small stand but they only had big ones left so even more expensive and then it was the worst place of the whole Fair, somewhere hidden near the exit, so everyone who passed was already exhausted. Of course the best places went to the people who do that Fair always so it was fair but very disappointing for us. The place looked hideous and it was quite some work to set it up and in the end it looked very beautiful but all in all a lot of money and a lot of energy spent for not much in exchange, although we did get some nice write-ups in the papers and some new clients that would make an appointment to come to the store! Our biggest new client was Bergdorf and Goodman who promised us a whole window on 5th Avenue NY, they were so enthusiast.

                                                                                                                 Ph: Francois Lamy

The collection consisted of Tight Pants, Loose Pants w/pockets, Sweater with long sleeves, Sweater without sleeves, Body Suit,Long Vest, Mittens and Hat and a Belt, all made out of a beautiful woolen jersey in 8 different colors, with endless possibilities to combine…

Ph. Tony Kent

the little bag and belts…

The long vest…. in the back ground painting of Patrick and Blanca that Salvador did and above my head an other marvelous painting by Salvador of a Moroccan carpet…

Like I said we were dreaming big but in the meantime everything else was going on
And Alegria was crawling, walking and then she was one.

Alejandro now went to a nearby school in Rue Chaptal which was a 3 minute walk…

And of course there were lots of great parties, incredible parties, by Karl Lagerfeld, Marie Helene de Rothchild, Yves Saint Laurent and of course in the Palace which was the Hottest place and it was good to socialize, that’s how it goes. We had become friends with                 Paloma Picasso and Rafael Lopez-Sanchez who had a theatrical group called TSE and when they got married we were among the 40 guests invited for the unforgettable wedding dinner given by Karl Lagerfeld which was of course incredible and even some old friends of her father made a speech… Paloma asked me to be the face on the invitation of the new Play called SUCCES and she used the same picture as an immense backdrop in the decor she designed for the last act. It was a happening…

I was working occasionally…

This is a cover for Marie-Claire (  a detail )                                      Ph. Laurence Sackman

And I also still was doing the shows because I really enjoyed that.

YSL

Then there was the dinner I have thought of at times because I had to make a decision and sometimes have wondered if I made the right one, of course it was right because I followed my heart but things might have been different? It was Anne Marie Muñoz  (directrice at YSL studio) who had invited us but that was not unusual, she invited us often, but what was unusual was that Pierre Bergé himself was there, I did not expect anything but when Salvador and I were leaving, we were the last to leave, already in the hallway to say good-bye, when Anne Marie asked me out of the blue: Would I be the model for Yves Saint Laurent to make his next collection on, in other words be his muse, his inspiration and model, which needs dedication, maybe long and irregular hours every day, but of course something any model at that time would dream of but…. that means I won’t be with Alegria, I want to be with her and Cooky, can not leave her alone at this moment with a new collection at hand… all these things went through my head in a flash… and I said : No, I won’t be able to do it! And that was it, instead I could have said let me think about it and we talk tomorrow, I would have talked with Cooky and we would have looked it over and it would have been cool with her as I would have made money to help us because soon we learned ” no business is done without money”. In other words we had gone overboard with taking lots of orders for the new collection which was made of that beautiful quality expensive jersey and after making our calculations we knew we needed rolls and rolls of it in all that different colors and so we went to order it…

In this kind of places, that sell to designers and are very official whole sale, they have no stock, it has to be made up and although for us it was a lot, for them it was peanuts and the total bill was shockingly high, which as such was no problem but they wanted the money up front and that yes, was a problem! It was a lot and because nobody knew us, there was no way to solution it, the bank would not give us a loan because we did not have any assets, only Cooky’s old car, ha ha . We tried very hard to find the money but time was pressing and we did not succeed, lots of trouble with the fabrication, waiting for the clients to pay, it was too much, we were exhausted and we finally gave up, cancelled everything… we realized that it is not a good thing to grow too fast, we were not prepared!

I did not give up making clothes, one jacket, very fitting, in different sizes and different fabrics, also pants, 1 size fits all, usually made of silk. These were sold privately but again, too much work for too little pay.

Here I am wearing one of the jackets and pants I made and sold… Life size portrait of me by Salvador Maron

….…After that dinner I was never more asked to walk the shows of  YSL, Alejandro did though, he came out as a flower bearer with the bride and a little girl, beautifully dressed, see picture below…

I started drawing, which is something that makes me happy and one day Salvador said to me: you should show your drawings to Anne Marie and so when she came to see us Salvador told her about my drawings and I showed them to her. She liked them and said: Why don’t you design some shoes for YSL and you call me… and so I did…

That was 1979, quiet a year…

LOVE and PEACE