DESIGNING IN PARIS – 4

MAKING DECISIONS

It is early 1979, Cooky and I are working on our new collection,

 … And me like always, stitching away, making up the models.

We had big dreams and decided to do the Paris Fashion-Fair, which is an important Fair during the Paris Fashion week when all the buyers from everywhere come to see the shows and make orders for the next season and we wanted to show our latest collection. To do that Fair was a mistake because the clients, or future clients, actually wanted to come to see our shop and have a private time with us to make orders, I mean, we were right there! But we were new at this and did not know. It broke our bank because it was very expensive, we wanted a small stand but they only had big ones left so even more expensive and then it was the worst place of the whole Fair, somewhere hidden near the exit, so everyone who passed was already exhausted. Of course the best places went to the people who do that Fair always so it was fair but very disappointing for us. The place looked hideous and it was quite some work to set it up and in the end it looked very beautiful but all in all a lot of money and a lot of energy spent for not much in exchange, although we did get some nice write-ups in the papers and some new clients that would make an appointment to come to the store! Our biggest new client was Bergdorf and Goodman who promised us a whole window on 5th Avenue NY, they were so enthusiast.

                                                                                                                 Ph: Francois Lamy

The collection consisted of Tight Pants, Loose Pants w/pockets, Sweater with long sleeves, Sweater without sleeves, Body Suit,Long Vest, Mittens and Hat and a Belt, all made out of a beautiful woolen jersey in 8 different colors, with endless possibilities to combine…

Ph. Tony Kent

the little bag and belts…

The long vest…. in the back ground painting of Patrick and Blanca that Salvador did and above my head an other marvelous painting by Salvador of a Moroccan carpet…

Like I said we were dreaming big but in the meantime everything else was going on
And Alegria was crawling, walking and then she was one.

Alejandro now went to a nearby school in Rue Chaptal which was a 3 minute walk…

And of course there were lots of great parties, incredible parties, by Karl Lagerfeld, Marie Helene de Rothchild, Yves Saint Laurent and of course in the Palace which was the Hottest place and it was good to socialize, that’s how it goes. We had become friends with                 Paloma Picasso and Rafael Lopez-Sanchez who had a theatrical group called TSE and when they got married we were among the 40 guests invited for the unforgettable wedding dinner given by Karl Lagerfeld which was of course incredible and even some old friends of her father made a speech… Paloma asked me to be the face on the invitation of the new Play called SUCCES and she used the same picture as an immense backdrop in the decor she designed for the last act. It was a happening…

I was working occasionally…

This is a cover for Marie-Claire (  a detail )                                      Ph. Laurence Sackman

And I also still was doing the shows because I really enjoyed that.

YSL

Then there was the dinner I have thought of at times because I had to make a decision and sometimes have wondered if I made the right one, of course it was right because I followed my heart but things might have been different? It was Anne Marie Muñoz  (directrice at YSL studio) who had invited us but that was not unusual, she invited us often, but what was unusual was that Pierre Bergé himself was there, I did not expect anything but when Salvador and I were leaving, we were the last to leave, already in the hallway to say good-bye, when Anne Marie asked me out of the blue: Would I be the model for Yves Saint Laurent to make his next collection on, in other words be his muse, his inspiration and model, which needs dedication, maybe long and irregular hours every day, but of course something any model at that time would dream of but…. that means I won’t be with Alegria, I want to be with her and Cooky, can not leave her alone at this moment with a new collection at hand… all these things went through my head in a flash… and I said : No, I won’t be able to do it! And that was it, instead I could have said let me think about it and we talk tomorrow, I would have talked with Cooky and we would have looked it over and it would have been cool with her as I would have made money to help us because soon we learned ” no business is done without money”. In other words we had gone overboard with taking lots of orders for the new collection which was made of that beautiful quality expensive jersey and after making our calculations we knew we needed rolls and rolls of it in all that different colors and so we went to order it…

In this kind of places, that sell to designers and are very official whole sale, they have no stock, it has to be made up and although for us it was a lot, for them it was peanuts and the total bill was shockingly high, which as such was no problem but they wanted the money up front and that yes, was a problem! It was a lot and because nobody knew us, there was no way to solution it, the bank would not give us a loan because we did not have any assets, only Cooky’s old car, ha ha . We tried very hard to find the money but time was pressing and we did not succeed, lots of trouble with the fabrication, waiting for the clients to pay, it was too much, we were exhausted and we finally gave up, cancelled everything… we realized that it is not a good thing to grow too fast, we were not prepared!

I did not give up making clothes, one jacket, very fitting, in different sizes and different fabrics, also pants, 1 size fits all, usually made of silk. These were sold privately but again, too much work for too little pay.

Here I am wearing one of the jackets and pants I made and sold… Life size portrait of me by Salvador Maron

….…After that dinner I was never more asked to walk the shows of  YSL, Alejandro did though, he came out as a flower bearer with the bride and a little girl, beautifully dressed, see picture below…

I started drawing, which is something that makes me happy and one day Salvador said to me: you should show your drawings to Anne Marie and so when she came to see us Salvador told her about my drawings and I showed them to her. She liked them and said: Why don’t you design some shoes for YSL and you call me… and so I did…

That was 1979, quiet a year…

LOVE and PEACE

ALEGRIA !

Que ALEGRIA, is what Salvador’s mom said when the baby was born and turned out to be a girl. We did not know if it was going to be a boy or a girl, although we sort of wished for a girl and so that is what she said when Salvador called her and told her it was a girl: Que Alegria!..”ALEGRIA” ( as we probably all know is Spanish for “happiness,merriment, joy) and then out dear friend Cooky thought that was a great name for the little baby girl, as we did not have a name yet, and that is how alegria is Alegria.

It’s October 3 1978 and here is our Alegria, just born, washed and dressed, Hello world!

Once home she was introduced officially to the family:

Salvador’s mom, grandma Margarita… who had come over from Madrid

very proud Daddy…

Big brother Alejandro…

sweet Petit Loup wants to know her too…

and with mammy

… Some of the congratulations that came with the flowers.

This was of course a very important happening in our lives but the world goes on and there were lots and lots of things to do…

Still there was always time to go for a walk and the cemetery was a perfect beautiful quiet place… 

 

In the meantime the shop was going strong and we had now an adition of a long reversible coat of 2 different color velvets as well and a short jacket that was also reversible with one side the flower print and the other side velvet. Now we have to look for fabrics for our next collection… so we go there next post.

This post is dedicated to my beautiful daughter Alegria and don’t forget to check her blog and her writings about her father Salvador Maron, Click, click. 

he is painting as always and made a.o. this portrait of our friends Mercedes and Barry and Manuela..they really posed for it…

… and his mom…

…And for the friends who are reading this but only saw this post, I like you to know that you can go back to the first post and so on by clicking on the months on the right there…it is starting in January,  you see it? Like that you can see all the posts you want, or if you prefer you can also scroll down…

LOVE and PEACE

DESIGNING IN PARIS – 3

Wow, things are going good and time to open a shop! It had to be at walking distance from my place so no tiresome transports, enough space to have a room in the back where we could work and it did not take us long to find a wonderful looking place right around the corner of Rue de Douai where I lived: 22 Rue Fontaine-Paris 9eme. The thing I liked was that it had 2 windows opposite each other making a corner to the entrance, so they were really big and they had some mirrored pillars in them. We made very funny windows, like one window all in black and white and the other one in the same order but all in color or one window like it is a mirror of the other and so on, that was great fun specially because we did have 2 window dolls in my image to dress up. The shop itself was in a sad condition when we found it  but with the help of Salvador, physical as well as financially, we got it to look incredible, it looked more like a very cozy living room than a boutique.

 It was great, nobody seemed to mind it was right there in Pigalle, the Rolls Royces stopped right in front to have the rich and famous just dash into the shop. It was so funny for us to think where it was made and where it was going…

Painting Salvador did of me which was hanging in the boutique

Now with the shop being set up it was also time to explore America and the chance to do so came from friends in Holland who had a famous shop in Amsterdam called: Puck and Hans and we were in contact because they sold our tunics there. They were going to do the American Fashion Fair in NY and asked me if I would pose for them in their clothes,  ( I was still a model) in exchange that we could have a part of their stand to show our line. Now we only had to pay for our trip and stay so it was very attractive and Cooky and I  went…

 This poster collage I made for Puck and Hans and not long ago he (Hans) send it to me on Face Book and like I said, although we made tons of pictures, I lost them all so it was great to see this one. In the collage you can see Puck ( the statue) and Hans (with my dress on) and Cooky and me having fun in NY city. We also had a chance to visit American Vogue where we were so well received by Polly Allen Mellon and all her crew and they all bought our outfits and even made a picture with a little write up for Vogue and later Polly wrote me a very long letter saying how much she liked it. We also met with  Carry Donovan, famous fashion editor, who bought one outfit for her self and one for Diane Vreeland, in red of course, and later wrote me by hand a very nice letter telling me that Mrs Vreeland was very happy with the dress. Karl Lagerfeld took me out one night with Andre Leon Talley, and we went to the craziest nightclubs somewhere very downtown, was funny and as everybody  who is in the fashion business knows, the New York Fashion week is an exciting time.

 Some write up in The WWDaily and the NY Times..

Back in Paris lots of work was waiting again as we now had quiet some stores in America who had ordered, Henry Bendels and IF among others in NY, Maxfield in Los Angeles, in Texas, Chicago and nationwide in Saks and other Department stores. We were still struggling with all the work, the money and the legalities. We always had to pay up front but had to wait quiet a while before getting paid by the stores which were many now, all over France, specially in St Tropez and Cannes, in Spain, Germany, Italy, Holland and Belgium and they are always in a hurry and then the re-orders came in and we had to think of new pieces to complete the line. Luckily we got help from a lovely girl, friend of Cooky, by the name of Sophie Bouchara, she was adorable and a great help.

 We made this postcard to send around                             ( Ph. Tony Kent, collage by Willy)

We had a lot of famous clients and saw pictures all over of people wearing it, we even made little ones for children and short ones like a shirt for boys and even Alejandro was wearing one..

 … and below a friend wearing it, Lara Koski, here in Los Angeles with her son Kaylan in around 1977

 ..and Pia Frithof my friend and lovely model, looking wonderful in the whole outfit, even  the skirt that went with it as well, no end to the way you could combine it..

Alejandro and Apple playing Cleopatra and Antonio, he wearing the Tunic and she the pants….

… some still have it and some still wear it or the daughters or grand daughters wear it… below is Ava Hervier of Lipstick Std  wearing it here and now, clicking on her name you can see her video and hear her sing.

 .. and myself here below, posing for myself a few days ago in the tunic a friend had kept and gave me, the pants were kept by my sister…, consider that it is not easy to push the button and then have 10 seconds to run to your place and pose… ha ha and of course a bit of Photoshopping…

We are in mid 1978 and something very important and different is happening…
I am pregnant…

LOVE AND PEACE

 

DESIGNING IN PARIS – 2

There is no place like home and although it had been fantastic staying in the country, it was great to be home again and have all our own things around. I had it clear what I wanted to do so I called my close friend Cooky Debidour as I knew she would be open to undertake something with me and explained the idea about the Tunic I had in mind. In my travels I had seen it in many different forms and from more than 2000 years ago till now women and men have been wearing Tunics so it must be OK. I always loved it because it looked so comfortable and colorful and now I wanted to do my own interpretation simply because I wanted to wear it myself. So this classic, interpreted by me, became a wide Tunic with open neck and a small Chinese collar always lined in a different color as well as the cuffs on the inside of the sleeves. The Tunic was not that long, more like an over sized shirt till the knees, apart from the sleeves which were not too wide and long because that is not comfortable. Then there was the pants which actually came in 3 or 4 sizes + a one size fits all but the fitting ones were great, very good cut I was proud of and very smart looking with just a T shirt. The Tunic was “one size fits all” ( it really did) and in at least 8 different colors and different materials which all would be possible to mix together. It came with a belt as well that was 3 yards long so you could wrap it around several times or use it for something different like a wash line to hang your laundry.

 We made this poster for all the shops that was selling our “Tunique Unique” and I am sorry I don’t have it in color, lost almost all the pictures and my press book full of newspaper and Magazine cuttings from all over the world, but I have a few to show you here.

 It was very hard work, first design and make up name-tags, look for the materials in different shops in Rue Goutte d’Or where it always smelled of heads of lamb they were grilling outside, negotiating for the best price because the same thing in an other store was prized differently. We found this lovely flowered materials from China in many wonderful colors and for the moment there was a lot of it. OK, now the pattern, which I made, also of the pants in my size but they had to be professionally sized in 4 different sizes and once that done we had to find an atelier ( workshop) where they would actually make them. Here came a problem because in every place we looked into told us we had to have them make a certain amount of pieces that was much too much for us and quiet impossible because we were starting small! We ended up, via via, with a small Atelier of Turks ( people from Turkey) that had no working permits but they could sew very well although they were all men and they would do anything we asked for a reasonable price. This place was in Belleville , a part of Paris not so Belle, and there in a small apartment they had a workshop set up with some sewing machines and tables to cut the materials and where they would sleep on at night. They would cook and fry on a tiny stove right there on the cutting table, with lots of grease and honestly we had to hang out the clothes and air them for at least a day before we could send them away because they also all smoked like trains and hardly ever opened a window. One time when Cooky and I went on inspection there I really literally fainted. We had to overlook all the time because they could make the most incredible mistakes like cutting the opening of the collar in the back instead of the front, which is not the same thing and since they were always cutting a whole bunch at the same time… We were wrestling with all that when the orders started to come in…

Anna Piaggi did this very nice thing in Italian Vogue and Tracy Weed (model that became photographer) made the pictures and between Ana and Karl Lagerfeld they organised these wonderful personalities as models and they each had a different take on it…

This is only a photocopy of a photocopy but I enlarged some here so you can see a little bit better how each one wears it her or his way… here are the links to all of them,       Tracy Weed, Heidi Moravetz, Emanuela Papatakis, Loulou de La Falaise, Joan J.Buck, Paloma Picasso, Anja Lopez, Jacques de Bascher, and below the pictures a bit bigger:

Emanuela Papatakis

Heidi Moravetz

Jacques de Bascher

Joan J.Buck

Loulou de La Falaise

Paloma Picasso

me

 Cooky and I packed our bags full and went selling to the model agencies, it was crazy we sold a lot even that it was not that cheap but everybody wanted it and so easy to sell because it would always fit, except the pants and if we did not have the size in stock we would make it up in a few days but it was mostly OK because all the colours looked nice together so if there was no blue in a particular size well, then green would do or yellow or red…

 with Cookygoing out to sell,

some pictures were taken for news papers… here in the elevator of our place,

and have to tell a lot more  but that is for the next post…

Its 1977 and I am 36 and Salvador became 29. 

This picture by Laurence Sackman in 1976 just for us with our own clothes…

I used to make or remake  blue Jeans and other pants for Salvador .…

oh, and don’t forget to check out Alegria’s blog to see what Salvador is doing…

LOVE AND PEACE

INTERMISSION

There is a time for everything and sometimes one needs to take a distance and view the big picture and we could use a little time out after all the excitement and busyness of Paris. The possibility to do so came from a friend who invited us to stay in his place in the country as it was empty. Now this was not just any place but a beautiful Chateau in the middle of a small village called Molemnes,  about 2 hours by car or train from Paris. It was an enormous gated property with an apple orchard and other fruit trees and the Chateau itself on the outside was completely restored in the original style

but inside everything was very modern and sleek with several studios and since the whole place was practically empty it was a great feeling of space.

The friend was Karel Appel, a very famous Dutch painter and I guess anyone into Art will know about him, in Holland he is a household name. I remember, I must have been 6 or 7, walking with my father in The Hague and I saw this big poster of a painting in the Stedelijk Museum and asked what is this? “Father and son” he said and that was the painting by Karel Appel that stirred the Dutch Art world and left me wondering. So funny how vividly I remember this moment. Anyway, Karel now lived in Paris and had become a friend. It is a pity how few pictures we made at that time compared to now but I did make some…

this is a portrait I did of Karel Appel

 …and my favorite models again… Apple and Alejandro

Apple came to stay with us for a long time because the school holidays were on and many other friends came to visit and stay for a little while. Karel introduced us to his friend Richard Lindner, an other famous painter, who was already very old then. Later in Paris we met his wife and had some nice dinners at their house, he was funny!

Here Polaroid of Salvador, Karel, Juan C. Herrera and me…

Sometimes Karel would pass by and paint for a day, his paintings were already sold before he made them and he could make 4 or 5 a day. He loved to see Salvador painting that would inspire him to paint and Salvador painted all the time, here a portrait he did of me taking sun.…

.…and this one of Apple

 

Here Alejandro and me in the kitchen when we just arrived there, I am wearing one of the pants I made for Pierre d’Albie and the jacket from the series I made in Canada .

 

We stayed quiet a while, maybe 6 months or so as I can see from the pictures that go from no leaves at all to lushes green leafed beauties as here in the painting Salvador did of some corner in the back yard..

and the summer there was so beautiful overlooking the whole valley from the windows on the back.

There was a great restaurant in the little village where we would go often, sometimes walking which was about 2.5 miles through the fields of wheat and fruits and sometimes I would take the train to Paris to do fittings and shows and check our place and when the summer came to an end it was time to go back to 11 Rue de Douai in Paris.

I leave you with a picture of my talented God daughter Ava, CLICK HERE to see and hear what she does, in 2002 in front of a Karel Appel in the Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam.

...in my head I have been designing and

something is working… I realize that if I wanted to design and sell something it had to be simple ( no capital) and if possible one size fits all (no profesional help because no capital) material that needs to be available and different and good prized ( for the same reason) and I need help…

and don’t forget to go to Alegria’s Blog, click here, to follow Salvador so you keep up with both of us.

LOVE and PEACE

DESIGNING IN PARIS – 1

Being a model was great but I had and have many other interests and the modeling had become much less exciting for me, never worked with Helmut after he had a heart attack and now it had become like working for the money most of the time and doing jobs I was not really interested in.  It is hard to work with a photographer who shoots between 200 and 300 pictures for the same outfit and thought, because they booked me, they could make pictures like Helmut Newton. Also there were many new fresh beautiful faces around to fill the pages of the Fashion magazines and France is not that big to have a lot of work for all the models that were flocking to Paris. Everything changes and now I was doing more commercial jobs and mostly in Hamburg or Milan which meant a lot of flying and not being home much which I did not like and although the money was good that was not a good enough reason for me either. Loved to do the Fashion shows so I kept doing that still for years but slowly started to work less and think more of designing or making Fashion illustrations. Salvador was working very hard on his paintings and it was just so fantastic to be home and draw and sew. First I took a dress I had designed and made years earlier in Ibiza, remade it with material available in Paris and made pants to go with it and I got Pierre d’Albie, who had several shops that were doing great, have me make a small collection for him.

 

 

 

 

 

 

left Ibiza 1971… right the version for Pierre d’Albie 1975

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It lasted a while and he sold it well but I had to compromise, like putting his name in the garment, (which is actually very common) and they started to tell me what to do and there it gets difficult for me…

I rather imagined beautiful coats of silk and velvet

Lots of things were going on, Salvador was very inspired and was painting all the time,

whether people were there or not, and Alejandro was now in a very nice “Montessori” boarding school so we had to buy a car, which is a crazy thing in Paris where we were living, impossible to park even then, so much easier to take a taxi or a bus or even the metro. In any case the school was a bit outside of Paris in Meulem as I remember well and so every Monday morning and Friday afternoon we brought and took him there in our new green VW. In the meantime I divided my time between modeling, drawing and sewing and of course taking care of the house and everything that goes with it.

It was a very exciting time because of what Salvador was doing and you can see all of that HERE, click!

Here some pictures of my favourite models Apple and Alejandro

and I also made plenty of pictures of Salvador which again you can see on Alegria’s Blog and except for professional reasons, no one took a picture of me except the photo-booth near Place de Madeleine,which made very good pictures, personally some of my favourites.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo booth 1975

We are still in 1975 here and I am 34 and very conscious that life is full of choices one has to make, and the trick is to make the right one so as far as I am concerned I follow my heart and try to be true to myself, but who am I and what do I want?? For me that is the question worth investigating and takes a lifetime and for what? For me to be at Peace, because being at Peace will allow me to feel free, free from all the burdens that I accumulated in my head as well as the material ones. I am at a point where less is more and realise that I need little to posses, my eyes can take in everything that gives me joy and inspiration and just a flower can lift my spirits and of course I love beautiful things but prefer to create them…

yes, life is a trip…

Don’t forget to check Alegria’s BLOG with Salvador’s story
LOVE and PEACE

MODELING IN PARIS – 4

THE SHOW IS ON…

Something new was going on in the Paris Fashion world. Up till now the ” Haute Couture” Fashion shows were presented by the “House” models, beautiful girls with long slim bodies and a lot of patience who were there everyday to do the fittings, as the models were made on them and later when sold, would be made up in the size of the buyer. As far as I can remember Yves Saint Laurent was the first to have “photo-models” or “cover girls” to show his Haute Couture collection together with the House models. And I was one of the first to be invited to do so, maybe even the only one because looking at the pictures of the shows I only see the girls I knew where always there. One thing is for sure, I loved it. Then came the “Pret a Porter” and some great models started to walk the catwalk. When I first saw Jerry Hall fresh from Texas at YSL, I was very impressed by her beauty, still very young with that long blonde  hair that she was whipping while walking, Pat Cleveland full of energy and her very personal beautiful movements, Grace Jones was there too and many other beauties who were the “House models” that were there always, Nicole Dorier, Vesna Laufer, Mercedez, Ana, Violetta, Mounia, Khirat and others and of course the clothes were beautiful. At the same time many new young designers were coming up, Thierry Mugler, Claude Montana, Kenzo, Issy Miyake and even Jean Paul Gaultier was still in the very beginning when he was produced by a man from India and he could not afford to pay the models but instead gave us all an outfit from the show, the amazing thing being that many of the best models did it, me because I always believed in him. Then there was of course Karl Lagerfeld for Clhoé and also his own line and a little later Azzedine Alaiia with his first Fur collection. It is so funny looking at it now because then we were just there and saw it happen, the shows were getting more exciting and it became so popular that people would be pushing by the hundreds to get in, Bill Cunningham, now famous, was always there making street pictures, always good to see him, was a tradition almost. We were a few that were doing all the shows and remember running from one show to an other with Pat Cleveland and Ana ( I forgot her last name but she was always there) and arriving in a hurry, a bit late because we could not find a taxi, excitement, make up, hair, screams, nerves and ready to go as cool as if nothing had happened. In that time we were few and so we had to change 6 or more times and we walked how we felt best, now they have a lot of girls and they show one piece and they all more or less walk the same as far as I can see. From all the shows, something like 30 a season, I particularly liked to walk the shows of YVES SAINT LAURENT

 with Yves after a show


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The clothes, the music, the audience, it all made you feel beautiful. sometimes I was the first to come out and particularly remember the white suit (far left),which was actually light pink, I was opening the show and the music went” isn’t she pretty, isn’t she wonderful” and you see in a flash Yul Brynner, Mick Jagger or Catherine Deneuve looking…it felt great. Catherine Deneuve came once up to me after a show and said; Vous êtes très belle! so I said; Aprês vous! It was fun, it was great, the compliments, the applause, the after parties, the feasts.

There were also shows in Milan coming up and the very first Gianni Versace show was a big thing with days of preparation as it all was going to be filmed… He had chosen me to open the show coming down on a swing from the ceiling… there were many others but Dolce and Cabbana did not exist yet, neither did Prada or Gucci have anything going on but Missoni was there and…  back to Paris where the Fashion world was booming and each was doing his or her thing. You can read about it in the book written by Alicia Drake called ” The beautiful fall” or in the book of Susan Moncur ” They still shoot models my age?” Each and everyone has his or her story. There was “Castel’s” and “Regine’s”, clubs that were very popular in the Fashion circles and there was lots of alcohol and drugs and although we had our share of smoking hashis, we never went to any of those clubs simply because we were a family and most happy at home and did not do the hard stuff, except for an occasional acid trip or a bit of coke at a party, it was always there and always available… People would come and visit us constantly and sometimes there was a whole South American band practicing… For me there was no place better than home. Later “The Palace” was created in an old Theater, big and beautiful and there yes we did go regularly, we even were part of the “The Prive” The VIP part of the Palace. Wow, there were some great parties in the Palace, thrown by either Yves St Laurent or Lagerfeld or for no reason at all and everybody sooner or later passed through there at a point, I even met Francis Bacon there….

Karl Lagerfeld made me the Clhoé Perfume Girl and I received for years boxes full of Clhoé products and Yves sent me this picture,

” For my very very dear Willie, who gave me many times the impression of my dreams becoming reality” Yves

Wow, that is beautiful and very thoughtful. Monsieur Saint Laurent, as everybody at the “House” very politely called him, was a very special person, with lots of Poesy and humor. Then there was Anne Marie Muñoz, a very special woman as far as I am concerned, who had a very important position at YSL,( she was the directrice) as she had been with him since always and I just love her. For me she is one of these persons that opens your heart when you meet them and for no apparent reason, we became friends and shared many great dinners at her home and will come back to her later…

We are still in the first half of the 70-ties and Salvador is working very hard on his paintings

Here photographed by Tony Kent for French Vogue Homme

and I am still standing in front of the camera’s in Paris, Milan, London or Hamburg…    and check Salvador here ☛ CLICK

LOVE AND PEACE

MODELING IN PARIS – 3

THE MODELS I WORKED WITH
It was a wonderful time in Paris to be a model, the Fashion world was buzzing with new designers, photographers and models came to Paris from all over the world. I worked with some of them and often got booked with the same girls so you got to know them quiet well over the years, others you worked with once or twice, some I remember very well  even if I worked with them only once, others I have forgotten, some become friends. I certainly have seen my share of beautiful girls and my first encounter with a model of whom I had seen tons of pictures was Jean Shrimpton in the studio of Vogue in London,  I was very shy and she was very kind, did not work with her then, that was much later. Next I was booked with Donna Mitchell and I really liked her pictures and she was great, wonderful Beauty, very different, she had or has something very special. I was very impressed to work with her.

With Donna Mitchell for English Vogue,                                                           Ph. Treager

With Jill Kennington of whom I had seen many very nice pictures too, some by Helmut Newton. She was very beautiful but did not get to know her at all.     Ph. James Moore

Here with Kecia Nyman The first time I met Kecia was in Morocco on a shoot with Helmut Newton, this picture is one of them, but we became friends much later and we talk over the phone often. Kecia is the girl who made most Magazine covers ever, I think something like 2000.                                                                               Ph. Helmut Newton

With Benny, forgot her last name but she was very funny and Helmut Newton liked to book us together on several occasions. She has a model agency in her home country Denmark. We had fun.                                                                  Ph.Helmut Newton

With Gunelle, she was pleasant to work with, very nice woman and then the wife of Hans Feurer. We met up in 2002 at the farewell show of Kenzo in Paris, she had not changed much, that long straight shiny hair…                                           Ph. Hans Feurer


Ph. Hans Feurer
With Linda Morand. Did not hear from her or see her (of course saw her famous Jaqueline Kennedy pictures) until I googled myself on internet and found minimadmod60’s and there I was together with many other models of our time, all put together by Linda. We got in touch about 2 years ago and her website has grown and is wonderful and we became great cyber friends.

With Wallis Franken, Wallis was a lot of fun, very cheerful and we had some great times, especially if it was on location somewhere for a few days. We were often booked together and she became a friend for the time we were in Paris. She was a great model and very professional. So sorry but don’t know who was the photographer.

With Gunilla Lindblad. Don’t remember who was the photographer but this picture also came out in enormous posters all over the Metro and Paris and all of France I guess. Gunilla was the most commercial professional model around at that time, very beautiful, also smart and she got all the good commercial jobs. Saw her a few years ago in Amsterdam where she was scouting for a NY model agency, beautiful as ever, down to earth and realistic, I think she still occasionally models.

With Christina Steidten. We worked quiet a lot together but never got to really know her. It was always wonderful to work with her though and she was a very amazing model and always dressed very nice in her own style, yes she had style.

Picture: Francois Lamy.

Ph. Andre Carrara

With Eva Malstrom, Eva and I did many shoots together for Marie Claire and Italian magazines. She came, worked a lot and left, lovely woman and very beautiful…

With Jeannette Christianse Ph. Jo Francki
Jeanette was amazing and throughout the years we worked a lot together, I saw her blossom as a model and we became work friends. I was always happy when we were booked together and when she asked me to join the new Model Agency she and her boyfriend John Casablanca were setting up, I agreed. In a way I felt very guilty towards Models International who had been so super good to me and was a very good agency  but… Jeanette was a friend. I was like always not very commercial, I should have asked for 1% of the company as we were hardly 10 girls when “Elite” was born and there was nothing to show this was going to work except for the top girls they got to join… I still am in contact with Jeannette who is a painter in NY and their son is the lead singer of the “Strokes”

With Vibeke Knudsen andMargrit Ramme                                        PH. Hans Feurer

Both Vibeke and Margrit have worked with the greatest photographers and both are marvellous and wonderful, Helmut told me Margrit was very smart and I have seen Vibeke several times when we were living in LA some years ago and she and her husband have some of Salvador’s wonderful paintings in their collection. Great models.

Ph. Tony Kent

WithSusan Bottomly Always loved to work with Susan, we were and are great friends and to be booked with her were happy shoots, especially if it was with Tony. She is a very special wonderful person and you just have to click on her name to know more about her, love her.

WithLinda Evangelista Ph. Steven Meisel
Just have to say that it was a wonderful experience to work with Linda, for me she is the super super model going still strong after so many years, she is wonderful and very very professional and gorgeous.
There were others I don’t have pictures off but some stand out: Donyale Luna took my breath away and I gladly made space for her in front of the camera of Helmut Newton so she could do her thing, Jean Shrimpton, very funny, lots of humour and very pleasant and beautiful. Jessica Lange impressed me a lot, she stands out in my memories and not because she is a famous actress (and one of my absolute favourites) she was not that famous actress then but doing some modeling in Paris, she stands out because I felt she was a person true to herself and she has proven to me just that, love her. Angelica Huston is an other person I will remember working with because she was real fun and smart and for some strange reason we were booked together a few times, sorry to not have the pictures. Then there were other wonderful girls, wow, I have seen some beauties, the incredible eyes of Yolande Gilot, the sweet French beauty of Louise Despointes, the sexy personality of Barbara Carrera, in the street or anywhere we went all the men would follow her with their eyes, she was great fun too, the uniqueness of  Ingmarie Lamy, she is still going strong being beautiful, Susan Moncur, she wrote ” they still shoot models, do they?” available on Amazon …. Sometimes you were booked with other models but each had their pages so in the different studios you would meet different models and cannot remember every one right now. Also met some models that I never worked with or saw in the studios but that I liked, like Verushka who was the girlfriend of a good friend of ours and he brought her to our studio, liked very much meeting Donna Jordan in Italy, she also had her own mind and last but not least Eija Vekha Aho, so gorgeous, it was like she was made of marble. A wonderful model and inspiration to many artists like Antonio Lopez with whom she had a strong bond, as well as for my husband who made several portraits of her. She is a very very dear friend, very special and a great model. I only have a picture she did of me and Salvador in our studio.

 … and here my personal favourite model at that time: Alejandro


Well, I think that was a lot but still much to tell, more girls to meet when I take you to the Catwalk next time… and check Alegria’s blog and follow Salvadors story like always, they go together,

LOVE and PEACE

.. and remember to click on the highlighted names, it gives you a link to that person, it took me a lot to do this so please enjoy!

MODELING IN PARIS 2

Modeling is fun but also hard work. One has to be in shape and look good because a lot of people are depending on it. At times it meant taking the plane very early in the morning to arrive at a studio in Hamburg or Milan at 9 and be ready to face a rack of clothes that all have to be photographed within a certain time as everything costs a lot of money. On a commercial job you sometimes had to change clothes 20 or 25 times and mostly the clothes were not that exciting and at the end of the day you would be so exhausted that it was dinner and to sleep, get up early again… working through the day and fly home, arriving at night and the next day up early again for that booking at Elle or Vogue which were much more fun and relaxing but doesn’t bring home the bacon. There were some very good photographers around and the time in Fashion was exciting as many new talents were emerging, Thiery Mugler , Claude Montana, Gaultier, Alaiia, Isy Miyaki, Yamamoto, Kenzo and more but will talk about that in an other post. Also photographers with a different vision came up……

LAURENCE SACKMAN

This was part of a series called: <Artist and their model> ( see Salvador in my glasses)

Laurence Sackman ( he is English) had his very own taste and style and he knew precisely the effect he wanted to get so it was for me really like working together with him to get that effect, which was not always easy but always interesting and like he said himself “I only shoot the picture when I see it”. Always enjoyed working with Laurence and we did a lot of things for Marie Claire and also publicity. We were good friends with him and Remi, his wife and inspiration, and their daughter Apple who was very close friends of Alejandro.

HANS FEURER….

 Loved the pictures of Hans ( from Swiss) and liked to work with him although it was not always easy. If it did not work for some reason he would get really frustrated and you feel a sort of guilty because you think maybe it is you who cannot make it work but there are a lot of things that may influence the outcome of a picture that is to be published and judged by many. The stylist is very important, a good stylist can make the dreariest outfit look glamorous, the light is of course very important, especially when working on location outside where the light does what it wants, the surroundings and the mood you got up with are important too…

 love his pictures and he is a friend, his daughter Malin was also very good friends with Alejandro…

APPLE, ALEJANDRO and MALIN on a summer day…

TONY KENT….

Loved to work with Tony, always nice people around, relaxed atmosphere, good music and great pictures. We were very good friends of Tony and his wife Susan Bottomly and he often booked Susan and me together… They are no longer together but both still dear friends, so many memories together…

ANDRE CARRARA

Andre was very pleasant to work with, very professional and could make you look good…

ERIC BOMAN

 Working with Eric, who is an English photographer( working in Paris then), was relaxed and you could be sure to get a really good picture of yourself…

BARRY LATEGAN

 Working with Barry was great, he was very soft spoken and gentle and it was really easy…Think it is so funny that I am holding my own bag  in a Vogue shoot.

♡SACHA

Sacha is from Holland, working in Paris where she had a fabulous studio. She was one of the very few female Photographers around then. Like her pictures very much.

ALBERTA TIBURZI

 Alberta was a model herself before she became a professional photographer so she knew how to treat a model. She is from Italy.

OLIVIERO TOSCANI

 Always great fun to work with Toscani (also form Italy) as we have worked together so much from the time when he first started… if you think this picture is easy try it in front of the mirror and like me imagine there is a balcony you can rest your high heeled foot on holding on to a cord that is not really strongly attached anywhere and smile, click…click, HOLD IT… click click…

DAVID BAILEY

Working with David was always pleasant, he is very funny and down to earth, English that is. Since you knew he would make good pictures you felt good and confident. He had it very clear, what and how he wanted it, so you only had to fill in so to speak.…

JO FRANCKI

 Jo booked me quiet a lot for Elle or publicity and it was super easy and nice working with him and he often booked me together with Christina Steidten and going to work was like meeting up with friends and do something creative. Jo was French I am almost sure but writing all this I realize that most photographers I worked with were from other places, either working in Paris like Helmut and Laurence and Sacha or they booked me in London or Milan or… Bockelberg in Germany, very well remembered by all the girls hat were modeling at that time.. Francois Lamy, he made you look so good…  once I worked with Guy Bourdin and the picture he did won some award in a magazine, Jean Loup Sieff was also a wonderful photographer, his pictures were very meticulously prepared and actually one felt like an object, beautiful for sure but… and there were other fantastic studios in Paris, I can not put everything here but I even worked once with Patrick Demarchelier who just started out and Alex Chatelaine, Steve Hiett and others… of the girls I met and worked with I like to talk in my next post, the Fashion shows were taking off.. YSL needs a post apart too and oh, there are so many things going on…  also at home where Salvador is making some incredible paintings,➜ CLICK HERE to see his work on ALEGRIA’s Blog.

LOVE AND PEACE

MODELING IN PARIS- 1

HELMUT NEWTON.

Helmut Newton has a post apart because I worked a lot with him, from the beginning of my time as a Fashion model, and although he had already done some fine work for a.o. English Vogue, Newton still was relatively new too. One of my first bookings with him was the series of the plane flying over my head…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and immediately after that a 16 page spread for French Elle at the Montreal World Fair.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I remember Mdm Lazareff ( Editor and owner of Elle, in that time there was only a French Elle) protested that he could not go so far with only one model, what if it does not work? But Helmut insisted and that series put me on the map. He booked me every day he could and it was when I was on a trip to Morocco with him that I met my husband and did not go back to London with the crew but stayed in Marrakesh. Months later I was invited to disclose my window display doll in London and worked again with Helmut doing the series of me and the dolls,

but I left again and this time for 3 years. When I came back to Paris in 1971 we worked a lot together again and did some great pictures for French Vogue,

Elle and others, but again I left. If I would not have disappeared trice I would have worked with him much more. He suggested once to put me under contract, something he said, he would never think of with any other model, but I am not a contract person and besides he would always have first option, which was not exactly true because if he would book me for 3 or 4 days for editorials and at the same time I could do a good commercial job, I would choose the latter unless it was not attractive, also there were many good Photographers in Paris I wanted to work with.

Now, here I was again 2 years later and was booked by Helmut Newton for French Vogue.  I was to be at the Vogue studio at 2 p.m., which I thought was a bit odd because usually one is booked from the morning and when I opened the door to the studio dressing room I saw 5 or 6 models there. I remember so well that image, I was shocked like, oh I am no longer the one! But once I got on the paper, dressed up, made up and incredible hair by Jean Louis David himself, things were clear, Helmut sent the other models home. This was an incredible session, all the people working at Vogue came out to look and Helmut was shouting : Marvelous, Marvelous! that’s what he used to say when things went his way. Yes, I was back and Helmut told me afterwards that he was scared that I had lost it on my travels and that is why he had asked the other models, to make sure.

This was the series… Well, part of it…
… in Salvador’s sunglasses..and love this fantastic series in Nova, Caroline  Baker was the name of the fabulous stylist

and the following series too… was fun

For me it was great to work with Helmut, he would never shoot rolls and rolls like some photographers, he would not click if it did not look good, he knew exactly what he wanted. It was intense, he would see everything”… that little finger on your left hand”… but it was exciting, something was happening between the camera and me, he sort of disappeared and gave me the space in front of the camera as if I was taking pictures of myself. It worked most of the time but not always, at times it was not right, the clothes, the light, the idea, something could frustrate him and then it was very difficult. This is one of those, I dislike it but did some Photoshopping and like it better that way,

somehow he wanted to get the American Pop thing… with the sharp shadow and the more I look at it the more I like it.

He was a gentle man and to me always very kind, he sort of understood me and so did June. Dear June, his wife( also an accomplished Photographer later) she was almost always there  and a great inspiration for Helmut as they plotted the ideas for the pictures together. We did quiet some work for publicity that were never published and sometimes he would give me original prints or slides ( that years later were stolen from my car in Madrid along with a lot of other precious belongings, probably by a junky who threw it all away). Salvador and I sometimes had dinner at their studio, I really liked both of them although we were never really close friends. When he had had his heart attack I never more worked with him and also he was not doing that much Fashion anymore but started his Nude series and photographing celebrities. In 2002, I was living in Amsterdam, when he had an important exhibition in Berlin and to honor him they had invited from each country the most prominent Photographer and from Holland they had chosen Paul Huf with whom I had worked decades ago but was a friend and when he told me he was going to Berlin I wrote a letter with some nice pictures of the family, a sort of photo shop collage and gave it to Paul who was delighted to give it to Helmut. When he came back he had a letter from Helmut for me in which he said that it was the nicest letter he had ever received  and he was very touched and there was a picture of him and Paul Huf in front of a big picture of me and I in turn was very touched. We went to his funeral celebration in Paris, he was a great photographer, making pictures was his love and passion, it was his life and I must say he left a big legacy.

June making a toast to Helmut at that special dinner that followed the funeral celebration.

 

 

 

 

 

 

and Salvador at the Dinner table with Christian Louboutin, the shoe designer and below Veruschka, me and Jean Paul Gaultier.

Almost every name in the Fashion world was there, Anna Wintour, Eileen Ford, Tom Ford, Lagerfeld and so on , was very impressive to see June after so many years…

This is an invitation to his latest exhibition in Berlin 2008-9

But we are still in Paris, it is 1973 and I had just turned 32!