HOLA MADRID!

Posted on February 19, 2012 by willyvanrooy

 inspecting the new place -picture by Sylvia Polakov

Yes, we found this incredible apartment in Madrid via our lawyer and friend Fernando M. so it was a good time to move and live in the big city for a while. I have to mention a few details about this place we moved into because it was pretty special. A corner building placed in the middle of old downtown Madrid, somewhere between the Royal Palace and the famous Theaters, calle Atocha 14, just a step away from Plaza Del Sol and on the other side the marvelous Plaza Mayor with its terraces and old fashioned boutiques with hats and caps and fans and other famous Spanish goodies and around the corner the popular “Rastro” the second hand market, which was one of my favorite places to visit. First of all the whole building with its 5 floors was more or less abandoned except for the very top and the second floor. On the ground-floor there was a bar on the corner ( it was a corner building), and a small workshop of a guitar maker who was famous for his excellent guitars he made by hand. Each apartment covered the whole floor and had 11 balconies, 8 rooms of which some were enormous. The first floor was empty and had been for years. The second floor was occupied by a lady who was 94 years old and her maid. Every day she got done up with make up and beautiful jewels and sat at the table in her living room that had not changed in the last 30 years, very nice furniture was displayed in all the rooms. She never came out of the house but I would go visit her at times. She paid the same rent as when she moved in in the 1920-ties which came to about 8 US $ a month. We got the third floor, on the 4th floor was a big artist studio with skylights and all but we did not take it because it was very abandoned and there was no water but later a painter came to work there. We had such a big place that we did not need an extra studio. The very top which was the attic had 2 small rooms, one occupied by Dora, who had been the maid of the owner and had lived there since always, she was in her 70-ties but everyday climbed these big stairs to her tiny tiny place where one hardly could turn around, and in half of the place she could not stand up straight because of the roof. She was quite pretty but her life had been to be a maid and to never get married. The other small place was occupied by the family that ran the bar downstairs, they were quite dysfunctional but had 2 daughters more or less Alegria’s age so we got to know them pretty well and they were funny. The building was more than 100 years old, a plaque in the entrance said “built in 1881″ with a drawing in stone of a horse and carriage. It had been a beautiful high class building but had been empty, except for the people I told you about , for the last 20 years. No one had ever cleaned the beautiful stairway, with a sky light that made the most beautiful light for pictures, or the fantastic entrance. When we first saw the place we were in shock but the space was so incredible that we got enthusiastic and started to fix it up. The marble floors which were completely black became a black and white pattern again and we cleaned and painted till all the rooms were useable. Like I said there were 11 balconies with high French windows and very high sculpted ceilings but no heating except for the old fashioned system, for which you needed a servant to do nothing else than keeping the stove going which sends the hot water through the whole house , working with cole or wood. We tried but it was impossible. Salvador and I each had our fabulous studio, a very happy place to work and we did work a lot.

Painting of the main living room by Salvador Maron

with Kabuli after we just moved in…

article in the New York Times….

picture by Robert Royal.

In the meantime things were different now in Elda and I had much more time. What happened was, I was approached by a big factory that only made shoes for America, a certain pump which they sold by the thousands. They asked me if I would be part of their factory as a luxury designer which would be publicity for them as they wrote about me in the shoe papers and I had won an award. For them it was a sort of prestige and for me it meant not to have to pay salaries anymore, which was a head-ache every week because we often had to wait very long to be paid and there were lots of bills as well. I didn’t need an office anymore, they took care of everything, I only designed, chose the materials, worked with the pattern maker and the cutter and have the models made up, always in my size so I could judge the comfortability which for me was number one of importance. I also took care of the publicity and the sales with our agents. They took care of the sending and the money, I received a salary plus royalties on the shoes sold. I could stay mostly home in Madrid and work there and sometimes go to Elda to do what I have to do and stay a week or 2. An other good thing was that they knew the american sizing well and could do it all in English. The sizing was a bit complicated in the beginning because in Spain it was different from French, american or English sizes. One wonders why they are not all the same everywhere? Once when we had a big order for boots by the then super hot boutique “Joseph” in London, they asked for a lot of boots in size 5 and 5 1/2 and 6, we thought it strange but somehow thought that English girls probably had very small feet or something like that, and we made up all those boots in those sizes and got them all back because they were so small; an English 5 is a Spanish 37 or a French 7 1/2 or an American 7?

postcard for the store, picture Sylvia Polakov, collage WVR

part of a winter collection…

One of the pictures I did of “Number 1 “….

 

and the same shoe without the stones photographed by Irvin Penn for American Vogue

 

 the fur laced slipper.. as seen by me

or by the Los Angeles Times…

 

 … or by the Spanish Vogue…

 

I thought the floor in our place was very photogenic

 

 

 

my boots for American Bazaar photographed by Scavullo…

 

or the same boots in “Details” Magazine.

 in a Spanish magazine…

Things were quiet different now…..   Things were going well…

but changes were to come…

                                             LOVE and PEACE

and check Alegria’s blog here, CLICK

and if you like , have a look at “bloglovin”, its keeps you informed about your favorite blogs…

Posted in drawings, Fashion, Jewelry, modelling, Painting, photography, shoes, Uncategorized | 2 Comments

ALEJANDRO, OLÉ

Posted on February 5, 2012 by willyvanrooy

ALEJANDRO in the 80-ties

This post I like to write about Alejandro van Rooy, our son, who was born in Canada and traveled with us all over the world and lived in many different places. He now lives and works as a designer in Madrid (Spain), but in the 80-ties when we had our shoe factory, Alejandro came to work with us. He liked it and was very good at it, learned all the aspects of making a shoe and was for me a great inspiration and a wonderful help. It was very important for me to have someone around who immediately understood and had the flair to come up with solutions. Being a great designer himself, he designed several models of shoes under my name and at a point even had a small line of his own … His ideas are always way ahead but yet so classic, nothing like my baroque designs, he is rather a minimalist but very definite Alejandro, which is classic with a  twist. When he was little he drew already so well, whole stories with incredible details and plenty of things happening, he loved to read dictionaries and could make maps of any country in detail when he was only like 8. In other words a funny boy with lots of talent for drawing and designing. When he was 17 and tired of going to school he came to work with us in the shoe factory in Elda and later moved to Madrid to take care of the shop, together with Taria, and would come over to Elda some weekends. In the end we all moved to Madrid and instead of having to take the train from Elda to Madrid and back, we now took the train from  Madrid to Elda and back when it was necessary.

Alejandro also took very nice pictures of Alegria and of me and of the shoes and plenty of drawings……      so let me show you some of his work…


This was the first shoe he designed (1983) and we produced. The model was called “Alejandro ” and sold well.

The shoe is a design by Alejandro as well as the picture. Here he photographed his shoe on the head of the display doll they made of me, (I made the hat). This picture was published in a book about shoes ” Haute pointure” by Colin Mc Dowell.

 this is a double page in the Spanish Vogue with a booty of golden linen with black suede decorations that is a design by Alejandro


The shoes with the red line around them are designs by Alejandro, they were very successful….

Alejandro made the most wonderful color sample books for us…

… or this funny invitation for our sales in the store… all the girls wearing our shoes and bags…

 


… his designs for buckles and studs…

 


his always very elegant designs…


 

 

 

 

 

with lots of humor….

Photographing his sister Alegria  1991?

  or me, here in Madrid showing my “leaves” jacket…

…working in the shop….

and here you can read a great interview of Alejandro by Raquel Cristobal (Gratis Total) CLICK-CLICK

… and have a look at his blog, The Pilgrim:CLICK-CLICK

or see more of his illustrations: CLICK-CLICK

well friends, next time we go on where we left off in Madrid,

LOVE and PEACE

Posted in drawings, Fashion, Friends, Jewelry, modelling, Painting, photography, shoes, Uncategorized | 2 Comments

OPENING A SHOP…..

Posted on January 17, 2012 by willyvanrooy

1985-86-87…

Where the idea to open up a shop came from I don’t remember but the time was right! We were selling very well in Spain, specially in Marbella, Ibiza and Barcelona. The thing is that these shops sold a few of our models, some over and over again… like the “Saphir” sandal which was very popular in Marbella, Ibiza and Los Angeles, especially in Gold or silver leather, in all different heels, from high to flat. A real best-seller .

 

                                                  Summer collection…

Anyway, what I wanted to say is that in your own store you can do what you want and put a whole atmosphere there which is your own, display all the ideas you might have for all to see and eventually buy… and there it was: a telephone call from Madrid! A lovely young woman from Finland by the name of Taria who lived in Madrid and was the wife of Ivan, a very popular Spanish Pop star.

Tony, our favorite seamstress with a poster of Ivan which he signed for her.

She wanted to talk to us and propose something, very interesting. They came for a visit and we talked. She really wanted to put up a shop and sell all our things, which is great but I could not have her have all the say, so after negotiating back and forth we made a 50/50 deal.

                                        Invitation for the opening of the shop…

… and what they wrote about it…

this picture was made in Madrid by Andre Rau for the STERN magazine…

 This meant we each paid half of all the costs, lease, rent, bills, keeping up, sales salaries and stock and we shared the profits of the sales in the shop. We as manufacturers made the normal  profits on what we sold to the store as we did by selling to other stores. Taria had quite a lot of freedom to order the models and colors she wanted which was not always the same as my own ideas but she was the person in the store and very dedicated and I even believe she found the shop which was an amazing deal in a district that was coming up as the Avant-garde fashion center of Madrid, it all is certainly “high end” there now! It was a sort of fallen down building, out of order and waiting to be torn down in that street named Piamonte. It had a marble front with a small but very chic window, and a very nice door, the rest was a ruin but full of possibilities. Taria and I had slightly different taste so concessions had to be made, I particularly remember the floor because I wanted it to be wood but Taria wanted black stone which with our Kilims on top looked great and the store looked fabulous when we had finished with it. I even had a mirror put on one of the ceilings so you  could see what the shoes on your feet looked like seen from above while sitting down.

The shop worked great, Taria was there every day and Alejandro moved from Elda to Madrid and worked in the shop which was very important because we could really trust his taste and he knew all about the fabrication as he already had worked with us for the past few years, he even had his own line and designs ( I will talk about that next post). Salvador made this gorgeous painting of me specially for the store, all in black and white except for the belt, bracelet and the blue shoes ( which you can’t see here).

 

Blue Jean collection

We were still living in Elda which was quite a way from Madrid, 4 hours by fast train, which was never fast but at times I went there to see how things were going and stayed with Alejandro in his flat or with our friend Sylvia Polakov, famous fashion photographer who has a wonderful place overlooking the “Retiro” park. Once the shop was working really well and we had a lot of interesting clients from the world of movies, fashion and music that visited our shop from everywhere and as far as from LA to Chile or Columbia, Holland, France or Africa, I introduced a small collection of clothes which was being produced in Madrid

And now…. I was going to have to go there more often

Alegria visiting Versailles during a trip we made to Paris, her dress and shoes are made by me and she looked so pretty there….Alegria visiting Ava Hervier for the summer holidays

Have a look at what Salvador is doing in Alegria's blog, click HERE

LOVE and PEACE

..and don’t forget to check the “BLOGLOVIN” button , scroll up and on the bottom.

Posted in drawings, Fashion, Friends, Jewelry, modelling, Painting, photography, shoes, Uncategorized | 1 Comment

MY SHOES… MY FASHION

Posted on January 5, 2012 by willyvanrooy

 

                                                                         Photo for Spanish Elle by Sylvia Polakov-1985

It all starts with a drawing which is than classified and numbered, number of form or pattern and all other information that comes to mind……


Besides shoes I loved to draw a whole collection of clothes around the shoes.…some I would make for myself


these I all made and wore

… and when a friend of Alejandro, Clementine, daughter of our friend Fanchon, passed by to spend some time with us in Elda, we got her all made up and dressed with my clothes and she let me take pictures of her on the terrace of our house in Elda. Alejandro did most of the styling and I think she is absolutely beautiful!
 Velvet coat, velvet boots …

 Bright emerald green silk blouse, blue suede skirt, black and gold belt,  soft leather booties…

 black leather top, belt with studs and stones and different metallic leather flats…here Clementine with Alejandro

Pity this is in Black and white as the colors were dazzling, all in the purples and gold…

The house in Elda where we finally landed was a wonderful house we rented from Maria, an eccentric old lady who had spent her whole life in the shoe biz. It was right on the outskirts with a terrace overlooking the mountains where we used to go for walks with our Afghan hound ” Kabuli”. We now had completely moved out of “El Cuarton” in Cadiz and lived full time in Elda and the country house in Aguas de Busot. The beautiful “Nido del Aquila” on top of the mountain got sold with our help and the Muñeca was now taken care of by friends. We had to be in Elda all the time because the business was getting serious and needed all of our attention and also there had to be some stability for the kids who had to go to school and so on. We had a marvelous girl named Paqui who would come everyday and cook and clean and take care of Alegria when she came out of school… It was a very good time….

In the meantime check also the blog of Alegria HERE

and if you like to get notified when there is a new post , click on the “bloglovin” symbol (and click “follow this blog”) on the bottom at the right side and you automaticly will get to know there is a new post and of course you can put there all the blogs you like so you won’t miss one. I love it!

LOVE and PEACE

 

Posted in drawings, Fashion, Jewelry, Painting, photography, shoes, Uncategorized | 4 Comments

GETTING DEEPER INTO SHOES..

Posted on December 20, 2011 by willyvanrooy

 


Oh, How wonderful to be making shoes, loved every minute of it although it was not always wine and roses.
The production was more or less in place so now the selling was the most important and in order to do so we had to get known  in the shoe store world. So after we did the shoe-fair in Elda…

which was very successful, we decided to do the NY Fashion Fair with our shoes and belts

Alejandro brought us to the airport.…

We were received in style in NY.  Samina, the Pakistani princess  and owner of the Nido del Aquila, came to pick us up at the airport in a white Rolls Royce, wearing an incredible white fur sitting there beautifully in the white leather chairs.… ha, ha she was too much.… you should have seen her home, all minimalistic super modern Italian furniture, it was indeed nice to see her and we promised we would do our best helping her to sell her house in Spain….

By now we had quiet some clients in the US, all wonderful stores, and we got some nice press in the Woman’s wear daily and some other magazines

The “Faust”
” La Española” designed by Salvador…

Carmen Maura, famous Spanish movie-star with my Rockies in Blue

In order to keep the factory busy between the time we made-up the models, did the selling, prepare the orders, order the materials and so on, there was a gap in which I had to keep the seamstresses and cutters busy, the shoemakers took much longer and they had always something to do and most of them were temporary workers anyway but not the seamstresses and cutters… so I started to make belts and mittens and finally bracelets of leather incrusted with studs and stones. We sold those like Hot cakes!
The first sample I always made myself and the happiest moments of that time was to be in the factory at night after everybody had gone home, sometimes with Salvador, sometimes with Marianni, sometimes alone, everything at hand, leathers, studs, stones, machines and everything else to design and make up whatever came to my mind, nice music, a good joint, that was heavenly to me.

The mittens, ( muñeceras)

Of course there were many things that were not so heavenly. Some clients would not pay at all, others would let us wait for months and considering that a phone call to the US was $1.50 a minute, it nearly ruined us. That’s why it was a very happy moment when a girl, Vesna, whom I had befriended at Yves Saint Laurent where she was a model, called me out of the blue and told me that she was shopping for shoes in NY and bought a pair of mine but did not realize they were mine until she got home and saw my name… Now Vesna wanted to represent us in America and Vesna was just perfect, looked great, had good taste and was really ready to go for it.

Now the whole setup changed and from now on we got the orders directly from Vesna, she paid us, than took care the shoes got to the stores and that’s how she got paid. It was much better and our list of American clients grew. We bought a Telex, the computer was still pretty unknown and only very big companies had them, so we had now a Telex, the next best thing, which often woke us up in the middle of the night when the orders of the US were coming in with a lot of noise.

In the meantime we decided to rent an apartment in Elda so we did not have to stay at the hotel . It was not a very nice apartment but at least we could make our own food. One day when we were driving around to discover the area we found this incredible place called ” Aquas de Busot” . We saw these beautiful abandoned houses and so we asked around in the nearby village where they gave us the name of the woman who was taking care of them. It was swift and happy for both parties, we could rent the house for something like $50 a month… Wow, what a place. It was pretty old and had plenty of rooms. I think the servant quarters were down stairs, an enormous entrance with a fire place so big we could all stand in there and in the days was used for cooking and a room and a storage place, upstairs were the living room and the bed rooms and bathroom.

The house stood in the middle of beautiful woods where no one ever came, with here and there another abandoned house, all big and beautiful and in the middle of the woods was a small castle, so pretty as I never saw, not even in movies, could very well imagine the Romeo and Juliette scene there on that beautiful balcony. We met the people who owned it, they came down occasionally in the summer when it was too hot in Madrid and  they showed us the place inside. Some parts of the castle were build in the 14th century and left original. It was perfect and in use, with gorgeous carpets and furniture, can you imagine? In the middle of nowhere? They thought nothing of it, it had been in the family for centuries.

Alegria in Aquas… all the tiled floors were so beautiful….

The sanatorium painted by Salvador Maron.

There was also a Sanatorium, abandoned since the 40 ties but had been a very popular place for people with breathing problems. It was a small village by itself with many different buildings, lamps from the 30-ties hanging abandoned from the ceiling, wooden cabinets of all shapes and lots of “Tonnet” chairs, real ones, signed and all and this incredible marble stairs and bath tubs and floors, unbelievable. We had a lot of fun spending time there.

So lets see, now we had 4 places to live and for some reason we also had 4 cars. The Landrover from the “Nido”, the beautiful SEAT Salvador bought in Elda,

Salvador and the SEAT.. wearing a silk sweater by our friend EDINA RONAY

A BMW we had bought from a friend who needed to sell and a Buick, the only one Automatic and that was the one I was driving and as a matter of fact that was the car we drove down to Paris with to show our shoes there. Salvador had had this smart idea to rent a suite in a wonderful Hotel” The Lotti” in Paris and invited the clients to come and visit us there rather than having a cold stand in the fair. We had such a good time and the clients were delighted to be received with champagne in that relaxing atmosphere


Things kept constantly changing. Alegria should go to school and Alejandro could not stay that much by himself as we were going more and more to Elda as that was where it all was happening. We are now more or less in 1985-86 and I am getting still deeper into shoes….
Have a look what Salvador is doing at the same time in Alegria’s blog, CLICK HERE

LOVE and PEACE

Posted in drawings, Fashion, Friends, Jewelry, modelling, Painting, photography, shoes, Uncategorized | 6 Comments

INTO SHOES, SHOES, SHOES

Posted on December 2, 2011 by willyvanrooy

That was it! Francisco had found us a small Factory that was for rent! Wow, Our own factory! It was very old but everything was there, some incredible machines that looked really alien and too old to use but everything we needed for our handmade shoes worked. It was amazing because the rent was not much and it was perfect for us.

Well, here we were again cleaning up as good as possible and painted the office blue-green so one had the feeling to be in the water.… Through the window from the entrance to the office

It was quiet a setup, we had to get people to make the shoes for us, a pattern maker, cutters, seamstresses, the shoe makers, (each specialized in his thing and machine to keep the chain going) a girl to finish the shoes, 2 or 3 young assistants, someone for the office and someone to drive around and organize and pick up things (Francisco) and a manager to keep an eye on everything. Then there was us, Salvador the M.A.D. director and me the M.A.D. designer

and Mariani, who had come from Holland with a friend for a visit and stayed, she was my right hand so to speak. We had placed an add in the paper and had job interviews, many people came and some got the job. Important for me was to find a seamstress who would understand me and I did! A young girl, her name was Tony. She was really incredible and eager to learn, she stayed with us through thick and thin and of course became the head seamstress. We saw her fall in love, getting married and having babies.                                 It was great to be in the factory , nice atmosphere, nice people and some were curious and liked what they were doing and knew they were appreciated by us and would do anything for us, like working sometimes to very late at night because things had to go…

Yes, Spain was wonderful, I love Spain and Elda was great, the nice weather, the beautiful mountains with an old castle here and there in the background, the factory and every thing one needed almost at hand… I say “almost” because at times I had to compromise for different reasons, it could be because of the great expenses, a new mold for a heel had to be made up by hand ( first cut in wood and when it is right they are made of plastic and sized to all sizes) so if I designed a special heel it was very costly to make up the molds unless you sold thousands of them which was not our case, we were just starting. But they had thousands of heel samples you could choose from of which the molds already existed, some from back in the 50-ties, all kinds of heights and shapes and there I had to compromise and get an existing one that was as close as possible to the one I had in mind. Later we were able to make up  more things like settings for the stones we found or ornaments to decorate the shoe, like buckles and chains, heels and platforms.

In the meantime I worked with the wonderful things available, Spanish brocades which were a specialty in Alicante as they use it for their traditional costumes they prepare once a year when they have something like a carnival. The good ones were hand woven and absolutely gorgeous.One version with low heel….… and a higher heel (picture appeared in a magazine)

I also loved the old “mercerias”, stores where they sell ribbons and pasmanteria and tassels and other wonderful stuff, they often left me go to the back room where they kept all the things from years back, buttons and buckles and silk or plastic flowers …

 

Next thing we had to make the Logo,

the labels, the boxes, the cards and when all that done there was the “Elda Shoe Fair”  Hire a stand, decorate and invite as many people as possible. Most visitors were from Spain but from all over and some American buyers and press. That’s how we got our first clients and the factory started to work.The factory, above left: Tony and right Tony with other seamstresses, a cutter, me with Olvido a young assistant, below Olvido, Marianni, me and Salvador and the last one, the shoemaker Paco and the manager…

By now I had learned a lot about shoes and could make myself a pattern or at least collaborate with the pattern maker as that is a real job and I had 1000 other things to do.The “Lautrec” black suede with Golden wings

Me wearing them…

and a different version.we convinced a leather company to print these leathers for usand made belts of the pieces that were left over, you could snap them any way you wanted and make it once, twice or three times go around the body….

We were still driving up and down from Alicante to El Cuarton and back and always staying in a Hotel in Elda or Alicante, which was half an hour drive from Elda but was worth it, more comfortable in front of the beach with nice restaurants around. The fish there was so good… But there is no place like home  and being with the family was very important.Alegria having a picnic with Kabuli our dog. We found Kabuli as a baby abandoned in a gas station, he was beautiful. A few years later he was killed by a shepherd when he went after a herd of sheep and never having seen an Afghan hound the shepherd got scared and shot him…Alegria and Alejandro at home…

on the roof of the Muñeca, with Alegria, posing in my designs…

Marianni stayed with us and was a great help with all the work and we had fun too. Always remember driving from El Nido  to Elda in her open red Porsche through the mountains in the sunshine with the wind blowing in the hair and the music on…

 It was an exciting time, it was wonderful, we were lucky!

My Husband Salvador spend most of his time helping me in the business so he could paint less but still did some wonderful work, check it out in Alegria’s blog, CLICK HERE

Next time we get deeper into shoes….

LOVE and PEACE

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in drawings, Fashion, Friends, photography, shoes, Uncategorized | 5 Comments

GETTING INTO SHOES 2

Posted on November 20, 2011 by willyvanrooy

Oh, sorry it took so long to get back to you but we were packing and moving from Oregon back to Los Angeles. We have lived in Oregon in this ” middle of nowhere,” wonderful place called Sherwood, between Pine trees ( Douglas Fur) and friends, surrounded by fruit trees and flowers, for almost 3 years and now we felt like moving back to LA to be with our daughter and her family. A new adventure…

In the meantime in my story we are still in 1983-84. Can you imagine the 80-ties? The “House”. The “Funk,” the “Disco,” the “Saturday-night fever,” the Grunge, the big shoulders, enormous earrings and boots in all lengths, style and shape.

For us things got more serious and more complicated. Here we were on top of the mountain somewhere in the very south of Spain where now we had 2 big houses to take care of. La Muñeca was a beautiful house and huge! 13 bedrooms and different other rooms on the roof and an enormous cellar full of beautiful hand-painted Spanish ceramic plates and bowls of all sizes, which were there because the owner had ordered 1 set of each but they had delivered 6 sets of each and now they were there.

La Muñeca ( The Doll) seen from the end of the pool and from where there was a glorious view of Africa  ☞

This is our first business card,drawn by Salvador with the name of our company which was”MAD”sl. MAD was standing for “Multiple Art Designs” or Money.Argent.Dinero.

Furthermore the house called “La Muñeca” was fully equipped with sheets and blankets for all the rooms and pots and pans and everything else, all of the best quality, maybe a bit less than the house we were living in “El Nido” where everything was first class, like the silverware was silver and all the plates and cups exclusive handmade, all the antiques, beautiful lamps and tables but both houses had their charm.                                                  The thing I liked most about the big house was that it had an enormous swimming pool and it was empty and painted white so it made for the best open-air photo-studio anyone can imagine.

Picture of Salvador in the “Pool” studio with one a shoe of the first collection called “star”Postcard we made from one of the pictures which we send out to a lot of shoe-stores to invite them to the Elda Shoe Fair. Well, this was all fine and wonderful but in the meantime we were far away from Elda, Alicante, and not only that but it was very hard to stay in contact. There was no telephone in either of the houses ( cell phones did not exist then) so if we wanted or needed to make a call we had to go all the way down the mountain and be lucky if someone was in the “office” to let you in and let you make a call and then if we were very lucky we got Francisco on the phone. This was all a bit of a problem but we trusted them and thought they knew what they were doing.

First collection as they arrived in their white boxes…

We found a school for Alejandro which was quiet a way away, down the mountain early in the morning and take the bus, in the afternoon up the mountain and so if we were not there  he had to walk both ways and because we had to be away at times we needed a girl to take care because we were too busy. We found a lovely country girl, Maria Jose, a healthy strong young woman who could cook and everything else, it was nothing for her to kill a chicken or walk up the mountain every morning as she did not want to stay overnight unless it was really necessary, like when we were going to be away for a week and Alejandro could not stay by himself there in that big house of course.

Poster Salvador made, we sent those to all our clients to put in their store…

Now we had to go to Elda more often because the samples were ready and we decided to make up a certain amount of pairs in different sizes of each model so we would have a stock in case we started selling. Actually the factory that was making the shoes for us just needed work and convinced us that that was the way it was done, which was and is of course not the case. You make the models, take the orders and only then start the production. But as we were new to this and innocently believed what they were telling us, we had them make up a “stock”. OK, but now what? Where to put all these shoes? To have them brought up all the way to the top of the mountain seemed extreme and costly so we rented an office space in the town of Algeciras, the nearest city. OK, an other place that needed to be cleaned, painted and made ready so we worked hard and got it to look great, we even had our own telephone now so we were in a much closer contact with Francisco in Elda and one fine day we received the first shipment of shoes, big boxes full! We did not have our own shoebox designed yet so they were all in white plain shoeboxes but we could not believe our eyes when we opened them. Usually each shoe is filled up with silk paper folded to keep the shape and then each shoe is individually wrapped in some more silk-paper. Well, these that we saw in the boxes were to our astonishment wrapped in kitchen-towels and filled with toilet paper! Honestly, quiet “avant-garde” really, but not our style and there we understood that it had to be totally in our control otherwise anything could happen and did happen.

with Alegria, checking the production…

In Alicante on the way to our Hotel… both dressed by me, the sweater I knitted in Paris and the leather pants I think are still from NY. Alegria’s dress was recent, I made most of her clothes and she was my best model…

One day the girl who worked in our office a few hours a day, wanted to wash her hands but there was no water, something that happened often in Algeciras at certain hours, but she forgot to close the tab and went home and sure enough the water came back… Next day when we came to the office and opened the door we could not believe our eyes, it really was an unbelievable sight to see all these boxes floating in the water that had been running all night. Well, this was a real disaster and we realized we had to do the whole thing differently and came to the conclusion that we somehow needed our own factory so we could control the quality and the timing because it was very important things got sent to the clients in time and they all wanted it NOW!

Golden Rocky, the al-time favorite, sold it over and over again…  background picture by Laurence Sackman

If there was a lot of work you could hire freelance shoemakers  of which there were many in Elda and everything would be controlled by us and our leathers would not get mixed up any longer, something that happened when we had our shoes made up by an other factory, they would use my beautiful leather lining for their shoes while they used their hard ones for mine… or they would put the wrong heel, or burn the leather, did not finish them (the finishing touch is important) thats when the shoes are checked, cleaned, brushed, wrapped and put in the boxes but at times they were in such a hurry that they put them in the boxes without finishing.. We discovered this by accident! They had no idea that these shoes were going to the hottest ¨chic¨ stores.

Working in the Muñeca studio.

Anyway, we asked Francisco to look around and see what he could come up with and it did not take too long……

I will get back to you soon again and in the meantime you can enjoy Alegria´s blog about Salvador, CLICK HERE

LOVE AND PEACE

Posted in drawings, Fashion, Friends, modelling, photography, shoes, Uncategorized | 1 Comment

GETTING INTO SHOES

Posted on October 17, 2011 by willyvanrooy

Here we were in that beautiful place and with the possibility to set up a business of my liking and I had decided it was going to be shoes. Actually I knew little about shoes, for sure love them and I had designed them for YSL and sometimes had my own designs made up by a shoemaker but that’s as far as it went.
Now, where to start? It was 1982 and there was no internet we could consult but we discovered that Alicante, a Provence at the coast quite a long way from where we were, was the place where the shoe industry was located and there, a few miles from the city of Alicante, was a small town called Elda that concentrated totally on shoe making. Some other little towns and villages made shoes too but Elda was bigger and had the best reputation.
One morning we all got in the land-rover and we were on our way, a beautiful but very long drive through the high mountains and country roads. It was so far that if we left early in the morning we arrived late at night but that first trip we stayed somewhere overnight because we wanted to arrive fresh and early in Elda to investigate the situation. We went to have breakfast in town and made a telephone call ( No cell phones in that time) to the first shoe factory we saw in the Elda telephone book. Salvador explained, of course in Spanish, to the director who came to the phone, what we were looking for and he advised to call someone called ‘Alverado’ and invite him for lunch in the Elda country club, he probably could help us further. That was indeed a funny meeting, the food very good and we learned a lot. Alverado was the most advanced designer and had his own factory where he made his own line which was successful and after we explained again what we wanted to do he asked if we had our ” Hormas”? Horma is the spanish word for “Mould” or “Last” in the shoemakers language, which is a wooden or plastic form on which the shoe is moulded and mounted and which decides the shape of the shoe and the height and the width and the comfort… so indeed very important. No, no we had no moulds and it turns out that each model needs a mould and the first thing to do was to go and visit the mould makers and choose some form that would go with the designs I had prepared. We started with the one that Alverado had advised us and to our astonishment there were thousands and thousands of moulds to choose from, so many that at first it makes you dizzy but later you get used to it and you know better what you want. In the end we decided to have our own made up and so we went to the best mold crafter in Elda and had him make up 2 basic forms, 1 for high heels and 1 for flats which he made to my foot so I could fit the models.

      One of our forms

 

Extensive days looking for leathers and other things to do with shoes….

All this took days but in the meantime there was a lot to discover and at every step we were sent to the next and after visiting several factories we found Francisco. He was the son of ” Montesinos” a well known shoe-factory owner but Francisco himself was working around in different places and someone had made him attentive to us and he spoke English!!! It was sometimes hard at that time to express myself exactly in Spanish so the fact that he spoke English and knew every corner of Elda made us take him in as our manager.

… with Francisco trying out our first models…


Although Elda had everything a shoemaker needs, it was very basic and very little fantasy. Could not find the soft Gold leather I was looking for and it had to be soft and comfy… here I got a lot of protest of the shoemakers in the factories because they were not used to doing anything different and wanted to stick to the traditional way… Also I was a woman and believe it or not in that time still something not heard of much in that little Spanish town. So because everything was so basic I had to invent little things that would make them special, so we painted the leather made holes and made them all as soft as possible but of the best quality materials.The softest of boots….

 The Gladiator

 Red Rocky, so well fitting, making a beautiful leg….

Venus, a best seller …

The painted leather….

We did a lot of work and after spending some time in Elda it was always great to come home and enjoy the pool and all the wonderful things there…

Back in “El Cuarton” we were now known to have resurrected the little castle and had done such a great job with the house that we were asked to take care of an other house that was empty and was next to ours… This house was much bigger then the Nido so we decided to make that place our  working space….

We go there next time but for the moment you can see what Salvador is doing in Alegria’s blog, Click HERE☜

 LOVE and PEACE

 

Posted in drawings, Fashion, Friends, Jewelry, modelling, photography, shoes, Uncategorized | 1 Comment

GOODBYE PARIS, HELLO SPAIN

Posted on October 1, 2011 by willyvanrooy


YES, we are packing and moving to Spain, it was not all of a sudden and it was not definite but we had gone there a few months and it had been great and all seemed to be prepared for us. The place we were going to, called “El Cuarton”, was a private urbanization with about 12 big houses on big pieces of land on a mountain side, with at the bottom of that mountain a small village with an office and some apartments for rent, a pool, restaurant and even a discotheque for the summer vacationers… El Cuarton was located between Algeciras, quite a big city with an important port, and Tarifa, a beautiful ancient quiet little town at the most southern point of Spain, a beautiful place with white empty beaches. It is 1981 and that is how it was but in the meantime Tarifa has become a famous place for surfers and the town is no longer quiet and the beaches no longer empty, lots of wind there which is great for the surfers but can sometimes drive you nuts! Salvador had gone first with Juan, driving all the way from Paris and had made friends with the director of “El Cuarton”, Michael, who invited the rest of the family to come and stay the summer there in one of the apartments in exchange for portraits Salvador did of his wife and son.
Read the whole story here in one of his books ¨Viaje al Cuarton¨, CLICK here for download Ebook ( half in Spanish, half in English) or CLICK HERE for the printed book.

In the time we stayed there we met some very nice people, the cook of the restaurant, a real chef, offered us to eat for free anytime in exchange for portraits Salvador did of his daughters, Robert who lived down the hill in a marvelous house and made great barbecues and was a real fan of Salvadors paintings and of course the director who did anything to get us to stay, and he organized an exhibition for Salvador of all the big pastels he had made while we were there. Alejandro had to go back to school , it was the end of the summer and we went back to Paris but Salvador stayed there to arrange things. He became good friends with Robert who asked him some time later if he would come with him to Paris to pick up a new car coming from England and then drive back with him. They came to Paris and on the way back to El Cuarton Salvador talked a lot about me and made Robert interested to know more and invest in an idea I might have for a business with my designs. In Paris he had seen my work and liked it and  he agreed. Salvador called me that night to tell me and now it seemed that all was falling into place.

AU REVOIR PARIS…

When Salvador came down with the land-rover, that came with the house, we packed her full and the 4 of us were on our way, the car was so heavy it would sway from left to right, but we got there safe after a three day drive.

Our little castle was quite high in the mountain, lovely house on a few acres of land, with a gate and winding driveway. It was called “El nido del Aquila” ( the Eagles nest), don’t know who gave it that name but we were delighted to live there for a while. The owner, Samina, lived in NY and almost never came down, so it was lucky we were there that summer and that she wanted Salvador to do her portrait because thats how they started talking.  She did not like the place as her husband had given it to her for her birthday but she was a bit suspicious about her husband buying that from an english woman without even ever having a look at it, besides she knew nobody in Spain.  She was very happy to leave it in our care and we were happy to take care.

There was a lot to do, for one the pool was now a play-ground for frogs and other creatures and looked dark green. Salvadors brother Pedro came over to help and between all of us we first cleaned off the old paint and then painted it a perfect blue.

 

 

The house needed a lot of care because the humidity was of a very high level, days on end we could be in the clouds but surprisingly when you got down the mountain the sun was shining, it was also a favorite place for the rain to play, the clouds would gather there as the wind came from all the directions.

Bella Alegria

                                                                                                                       Pict: Cooky Debidour

my sweethearts happy in the Spanish country side

Once the house was put in order, decorated and repaired we started thinking seriously what to do. I did not have to think long, it seemed logic to me: SHOES! A dress, coat, pants or anything I could make but shoes… it was very hard to find nice shoes at that time and the man who produced the shoes for YSL, (Andre Pfister I think) told me I had an excellent eye and talent for shoes and their proportions and he gave me a beautiful last, a form of the foot in wood on which the shoe is made, like saying ‘ go ahead, here is a start’, and most of all Spain is one of the countries in Europe that actually have a shoe industry… so all this put together….

… SHOES IT WAS GOING TO BE

CLICK here to get to Alegria’s blog and see what Salvador is up to at the same time!
               

              LOVE and PEACE

 

Posted in drawings, Fashion, Friends, modelling, Painting, photography, shoes, Uncategorized | 4 Comments

DESIGNING IN PARIS – 6

Posted on September 19, 2011 by willyvanrooy

Times they are a changing……

In 1980 and 1981 I was drawing a lot for Yves St. Laurent and for me this was such a pleasure that I made each drawing a really nice one which was maybe not that necessary because after all it was for the designs they bought them. But Anne Marie told me that she really liked the fact that if she asked, for example, for T shirts I would also draw the belts and the jewelry. She really liked my drawings so I tried to make them as wonderful as I could.

One day in 1981 she offered me a real job, not freelance like I had done up till now, but in the YSL Design Studio which I knew well as I often went there and of course here was another dream-job for any one in my field of work, but…. although I did not answer straight away this time, but thought about it, in my heart I knew I was going to answer again: I can’t do it….… because I could not, an other adventure was in the making and like I told you I follow my heart.

Anne Marie Muñoz has been an important person for me, so kind, so beautiful, such great taste and wonderful manners, always impeccable with her dark red lips and of course dressed in YSL, she helped me a lot and made me feel protected, I will never forget her. An other wonderful woman I won’t forget is Claude Brouet, at the time chief editor at ELLE and later at MARIE CLAIRE and now at Hermes, she had a vision in Fashion , an incredible eye and very kind, I like her so very much. And the wonderful Irene Sylvagni, then editor in chief at French Vogue and now the right hand of  Yojhi Yamamoto, she impressed me a lot because of her free spirit and wonderful eye for Fashion. These 3 women have inspired me and influenced me, even if they don’t know they did so, and I am forever grateful to have had the change to meet them and work with them. ( if you click on their highlighted names you can read more about them).

The drawings above (and 4 jewelry drawings) are in my possession because somewhere in the late 80′s when YSL was being sold,  Anne Marie gave these drawings back to me and said: ‘I like you to have these drawings, Yves liked them very much and I think you can do something with them one day’ .. Anne Marie, Anne Marie, how thoughtful…
Anyway I have them and think to sell them, after all they are a document of Fashion of that time and they have been through the hands and eyes of the master himself…

In the meantime… showing you some family pictures of that time, I even printed those myself in the Darkroom of a friend…

Alegria was growing up


Alejandro was doing well in school (his French teacher called to meet us and told us Alejandro had a great talent for writing and compared him to Flaubert and Rimbaud).  He was doing a part in a popular French movie ” Alone in the world” a famous tear sucker which plays every year around christmas on TV. His mother in the movie was Petula Clark.…

Salvador was painting like always but because of circumstances he had to drive with his friend  Juan Prat to the south of Spain as Juan himself could not drive. There in Spain he met Samina, a Pakistani princess of whom he made a portrait and who would lend us her house for several years and he met Robert, who would become an important person in our lives. Next time I will tell more about this because here things are starting to change and that was the reason I did not accept the wonderful job Anne Marie was offering me.…
Paris had been great, we had done a lot of things, we had met a lot of wonderful people, we had made friends, we enjoyed the best parties…Yes, Paris is a great place to live, we loved to walk around and go to the museums and exhibitions and to wonderful restaurants. Around the corner from where we lived were 2 incredible ones, one very famous as the stars of theater and TV would go there, great food and open till very late and the other one was in Rue Chaptal, we found it by accident because it was in front of Alejandro’s school. We called it ” The Ladies” because they were 3 sisters doing the whole thing. It was so good we went there whenever we could and brought our friends but like with all good things the word spreads fast and after a year or 2 it got so busy you had to call to make a reservation well in advance, of course the prices went way up, but still, an incredible place. Then there was “Dominique”, a Russian restaurant we liked a lot, Blinis with Caviar and Chicken a la Kiev, not to forget “Clos de Lilas” La Coupole and some other favorites. Enfin, Paris has everything and too many things to tell here… for now I leave you with some more family pictures.

We are now getting ready to go to Spain….
Don’t forget to check Alegria’s blog to know what Salvador is doing, CLICK here

LOVE and PEACE

Posted in drawings, Fashion, Friends, Jewelry, modelling, Painting, photography, Uncategorized | 7 Comments